Catching up with Tui - and 'Super Harry'

Due to the ongoing hospitality of Tui, who we met several weeks ago in Trang, we were introduced to Harry ( the local radio announcer ) and his lovely wife Yieow. They invested much time and energy in showing us the sights of Trang and surrounds. We enjoyed their company immensely, as they share a fun loving and generous spirit

Often we had no clear idea of where we were off to, but would pile into the back of Harry's 4WD, along with friends, relatives and/or locals hitching a ride from off the street. We were taken out to one of the local waterfalls for a dip and to varied locations for a feed. We enjoyed meals at the Chinese temple, local shopping centre and at places well off the beaten track, including a restaurant a couple of hours drive from town, overlooking the ocean.

We gained another perspective on the Vegetarian Festival (see LAM Bits, 3 Pigs) when we arrived at a beautiful temple, set in a landscape of limestone cliffs and jungle, outside of Trang. The extended family we were with, gave donations of rice and other useful cooking ingredients to the temple. Then we discovered that Tui's girlfriend Seow was to stay out there for the duration of the festival, along with many other women from town. These women spend the days fasting, praying and avoiding the temptations prohibited under the rites of the festival. Some also choose to have their hair shaved off - as Seow did. Afterwards, the boys dubbed her ' Demi Moore'.

The main building is surrounded by 3 large caves and Tui and Harry guided us through each of them. The caves are actually places of worship, with beautiful gold Buddhas and images of other gods throughout. A large 'canteen' and prayer hall are housed within the cave structures.

After an eventful time in Trang, we were treated to a send off at the train station, as we primed up for a 16 hr, 3rd class trip to Bangkok ( another story!). We were provided with snacks for the journey - enough to last for a good week after. We're looking forward to a visit to Trang next year - there's rumoured to be a wedding on the cards!

Coldest Beer in SE Asia

Ditch the ice cubes usually required to cool your luke warm beer in Thailand - welcome to icy beer slushies!

About 50 metres NW of the clocktower in Trang ( on Th. Visetkul ), in a square off the main footpath, opposite what has to be the largest portrait of the King in Trang, is a cluster of food stalls. The one with its ' kitchen' virtually on the footpath, has something special inside...

It seats about 25 people at a time and would do double that in take-aways. We frequented enough, that the main attraction - the beer fridge - became self service for us. It is set so cold that the beer would pour semi - frozen from the bottle. At 40 baht (AUD$1.30), a tallie, naturally, we were regulars.

One evening, the young chef working there decided he was up for a session with us. All was going well until he decided we should skull the drinks. To be fair, he'd already helped himself to a few during service and is prettly lean. He chose to down his beer through a straw. After spilling a few bottles, then smashing a couple more, he got up, did the swagger and then head butted the gutter. Game over. As one of the other chefs was still cleaning down, the young guy was sat in a chair and hosed down. He had split his ear open and grazed his shoulder and arm. We thought it was time to head off. We returned the next day, to find that he was a no show and in the bad books with his old man, the owner!

The Art of Imitation

We were kept guessing sometimes; though many dishes looked like real meat, it was just clever imitation. The Vegetarian Festival in Trang is a bounty of wonder.

Throughout Trang, in numerous restaurants, stalls and at tents set up in the grounds of temples, there was a remarkable array of vegetarian fare on offer, as part of the Vegetarian Festival. Yellow flags fluttered in the streets to highlight the location of these places and they did a roaring trade during the 9 days of celebrations.

A large percentage of the dishes were made to look exactly like meat. Tofu, tempeh, rice, yam and potato were used in amazingly creative ways to imitate the meat that is disallowed for the followers of the festival rituals. There was imitation bbq pork, roast duck and even what appeared to be whole fish.

The temples provided free food all day for anyone who turned up, foreigners included. Many locals bring donations of food to these temples as a way of contributing to the cost and to gain merit.

Under the Influence

There's no programme available for Trang's Vegetarian Festival. The locals often gave us conflicting information regarding where and when - but they all assured us we wouldn't miss the most outrageous displays by those under the influence of the gods. As it turned out, we managed to score some amazing footage of believers going into a trance and the crazy antics that followed.

We kept busy visiting each Chinese temple and watching for the crowds, that became a sea of white clad figures ( see LAM Forum ), when major events were about to take place. During the first days of the Vegetarian Festival, a lantern pole was erected to invoke the gods, a parade of virgins was held and people started to participate in paying homage to various gods.

Anticipation grew one morning as we watched open backed trucks, full of men in strange clothing - such as bright red and gold cut out vests, some with whips - being driven out of the temple. As the trucks passed, people along the road bent down, as if to show respect. The next night, during more celebrations, we noticed some young men sporting fresh, deep cuts to each side of their mouth.

When events moved to the large temple close to the centre of town one night, the atmosphere was highly charged. Heavy, repetitive drum beats would gradually build and the effect on the crowd was quite intense. As this continued, individuals would suddenly start shaking all over, jump, sway and dance in a frenzy. Sometimes their eyes rolled back. A desk , covered in scrolls, was set up next to the drums and each affected person would slam their palms on the table, shaking. Attendants would help them into colourful garments, to depict a particular god. This continued, also extending to some women, who are believed to become possessed by child gods. They are dressed in bright, oversized child outfits, their hair in pigtails. This was facinating to watch, it didn't matter if we believed in the possession by gods, or not; clearly these people did and that made it real.

More activites followed, culminating in an amazing Chinese dragon dance ( the longest dragon we've ever seen ), then a massive firework display. When these festivities were over, we watched what appeared to be a 'de-possession' ritual. Once again, the possessed put their palms down on the desk and prayed or chanted. Suddenly, they would jump violently back and yell, like they'd received a jolt of electricity. They changed out of the custume and appeared to be in a heavy 'come down' state.

Freaky Market

We witnessed amazing sights of pain and religious fervour during the parades through town for the Vegetarian festival.

The most gruesome shows during the Vegetarian Festival, were held at the big, central Chinese temple, in broad daylight. The mediums of the gods, once again went into a trance, to become possessed. The drums beat loudly, and a procession of people carrying flags and minature shrines, waited patiently. A couple of local guys, overseeing the events, shuffled us through the crowds to see the devottees being skewered through the face with metal rods. They were dressed in the 'outfits of gods', often shaking, some with eyes rolling back. Attendants dowsed their wounds with water; there wasn't a lot of blood, amazingly, but of course, horrific scenes nonetheless.

In sweltering heat, in the middle of the day, these people with pierced faces ( and necks ), started off to march through town, an event that took many hours. During the parade, the 'gods' visited tables of offerings set up outside shop fronts along the way to give their blessings. Some of these offerings ( eg. fruit ), ended up attached to the face piercings, kebab style.

This activity continued for days, with participants upping the ante, by getting creative with the objects used to puncture their faces with: umbrellas, whipper - snipper, chairs, flags, chains, bicycles, branches, power drill, fishing rods...

The blood flowed freely from a man continually slicing his tongue with a blade imbedded in a bamboo casing, another man was hitting a blade into his chest with a blunt instrument.

Locals lined the streets to witness the bizarre scenes. As the parade approached, an eerie, quiet would fall. The main players often looked exhausted, some clearly in pain, despite their 'god' status. They were soaked in perspiration and from water being poured over them - the only form of relief provided. A couple of women had a rod through their face, but mostly it was the men, some very young, with a face full. After the parade and entourage moved on, huge poles, wrapped in fireworks were let off; the noise shocking after the silence before.

The Chinese Vegetarian Festival

It's believed this festival originated in Phuket, Thailand, where it continues to be practiced each year. It made its mark during a time about 150-180 years ago when inhabitants of the island suffered an outbreak of what is thought to have been malaria. Members of a visiting opera company from China also fell ill; they had neglected to pay homage to the 9 emperor gods that month...

The Chinese visitors immediately set about appeasing the gods by performing sacred rituals and following a vegetarian diet for a month. The people recovered and there were enough converts to ensure this has become a yearly event. It is thought that by participating in this practice of pacifying the gods and abstaining from stimulants, then good health, good luck and peace of mind can be achieved. The ritual of some devottees ( called 'Ma Song' ), of becoming possessed by the gods, showcases extreme displays of self mortification. Because they are possessed by gods, they are believed to be immortal and to prove the strength of their belief, 'Ma Song' walk over hot coals, go up 'ladders' made of blades and pierce their bodies with a ( seemingly unlimited ) range of instruments. Our mate Tui ( see friends of LAM ) regaled us with a story about a 'Ma Song' that got carried away one year; instead of limiting himself to facial wounds, he pretty much committed ' hari kiri '. Supposedly, he did hold up longer than expected, but did eventually die.

In the hands of the gods

What a time we had on our return visit to Trang...some images have been impressed on us that won't ever be erased. A 'Vegetarian Festival', generally arouses thoughts of health and well being, rather than self mutilation, but it was extreme examples of the latter that surrounded us in Trang during this event.

The Vegetarian Festival takes place annually, during 9 days in September / October ( the date is determined by the lunar calander ). It centres around 2 Chinese temples in Trang, where people gather day and night, dressed all in white, to display their abstention from consuming meat and alcohol, having sex, telling lies and killing. Menstruating or pregnant women, or those in mourning, cannot attend.

It is a hive of activity, with make-shift restaurants providing free vegetarian fare ( see LAM Bits ); hawkers selling noisy dragon toys, virgin parades, Chinese dragon dances and riviting displays by those under the influence of the gods - all set to a deafening soundtrack of constant firecrackers and drum beats ( the noise is believed to drive away evil spirits ). (See 3 Little Pigs to Market ).

Trang Festival, October 21-30, 2006

Yamaha 110s

To get around town, look for the guys in vests, hanging at the street corners, by the line - up of Yamaha 110s.

It is cheap, efficient and convenient for getting from A to B; the ' taxi '-motorbike. There is a risk, as no helmets are provided, but these certainly aren't speed machines. We caught a lift a couple of times, 3 to a bike is considered ok- the locals can pack on their whole family.

Tui, Tod Mun Pla King

Tui is a fish "maestro" at the Trang evening market who provided great info in marvelous English.

Tui ran a fish cake and whole smoked fish stall. From our first encounter he was full of information about the different food stalls in the market. Oh yeah, his fish cakes were joy as well.

Tui gave us the complete run down of Khanom Jeen ( the fresh rice noodle dish). Whilst we were elbow deep in a bowl, Tui would leave his stall to help us work out what all condiments were and how best to use them.

We look forward to seeing Tui again when we return to Trang in late October for the annual Chinese Vegetarian Festival. He has offered to show us around to a few "out of the way" places. Bring that on!

Beer garden suprise

Beer you say! Order your own 3.3 litre jumbo tube with a tap. Self service was never made so easy, just pour it slow.

Sharing a 'pour your own' supply of beer at the beer garden near LAFIGA night club was a great way to cohearse with locals.

The only move from here was to the night club itself. After three months in a more reserved country, you can imagine our suprise and excitment when we rounded the corner to find wall to wall people,dj's and catwalk holding scantily clad girls rubbing themselves against each other. "The juices were flowing" !!

While letting our hair down the locals where forth coming with communal drinks, (later we figured probablly not a great idea to accept; druggings and all). People were very keen to meet and dance with the only foreigners in the place, they really seemed to get a thrill out of us getting involved in the carry on. In fact we got so carried away we were amongst the last five people to leave, well and truely after the lights came on.

Trang evening market

One place where you know you have entered a new country is at the evening market. Trang's is extremely colourful: aahhh, our first smell and taste of authentic Thailand.

Amongst the usual trashie music, sunglass, thong (flip-flop) and cheap t-shirt stands was an amazing array of food stalls. There was wildly aromatic curries, salads, fried goods, fresh fruits, noodles, desserts and loads of smiles to boot.

One unusual dessert that we stumbled upon, consisted of a wet rice batter ladled onto a cloth steamer. When virtually "set", a filling of caramelized shallot, peanut, palm sugar and fish sauce was placed on one half and then folded over (similar to a tortellini). The tasty morsel was then brushed with a toasted garlic oil and served with cabbage and scud chillies. At the time of eating we all commented on the silkiness of the dumpling which was well balanced by the richness of the filling and the crunchiness of the garlic. Unaware it was a dessert, until a local let us in on the secret, demonstrates how the Thai's complete their meals with something slightly savoury rather than sickly sweet, to keep total balance.

Trang's rice noodle

The supposed origin of a dish typical to southern Thailand : "Khanom Jeen", a fresh thin rice noodle.

"Khanom Jeen" is prepared individually be each store owner. Noodles are handmade by pushing a rice flour and water paste through a sieve into boiling water until they come to the surface (when cooked).

Sauces for this dish comprise of generally four traditional types :

i) not spicy: red colour

ii) spicy with coconut milk: yellow colour

iii)spicy non coconut milk:greenish colour

iv)chicken

Tables are laid out with a variety of condiments(which are a huge part of this dish) to add at will. The condiments include: snakebeans, cucumber, cabbage and assorted herbs, boiled egg and chillies. A range of pickles including shallot, vegetables and shoots, very common is the banana shoot with coconut.

The condiments are the secret as no two people experience the dish the same way.