Trang Festival, October 21-30, 2006

The webdesigner visits team L-A-M

Here's the man behind the L-A-M website. It was great to spend time with Warren and Deirdre on Ko Samui, there's plenty of nightlife in those back alleys.

L-A-M would like to introduce the man behind the creation and design of our website. Warren O'Hara runs his webdesigner business in Caulfield, Melbourne. Most people are aware of Megan and Alanna's lack of computer knowledge, mine even less so. Warren has designed a very basic program for us to follow whilst we update our experiences, as well as the stunning graphics you see. We are very grateful for his and his teams ongoing support.

It was fantastic to catch up with Warren and Deirdre in Ko Samui. It was a definite change of scenery for us to spend the afternoon catching up at their resort bar by the pool in the "expensive" seats. We nearly didn't get in due to our "rustic" experience, as the concierge gave us the once over, he new full well we were used to spending about $4 a night to sleep in our concrete dens.

So when the sun slipped behind the horizon, we dragged the guys into the neon lit night of Chaweng Beach. After a "few" various vodka concoctions, we made our way into the back alleys of Chaweng to a dance floor that required the usual "disco inferno" impersonations. I think this was the straw that broke the camels back so to speak, as Warren and Deirdre bade us farewell.

So for those of you interested in joining us (you know who you are), we are more than happy to take a break from our hectic, stressful lifestyle and kick back for a few days. See ya soon.

Sensational Snaggers in Nakhon Si Thammarat

In the southern city of Nakhon Si Thammarat, there is a vibrant street culture filled with amazing aromas.

In , Thanon Jamroenwithi, there is an array of food stalls running all day and night. A leisurely walk from one end to the other will produce anything from deep fried jackfruit, khanom jiin, fried chicken, fruit stalls, coffee/tea stands, noodles galore, stuffed pancakes, chicken biryani, hor mok(steamed curried fish cakes wrapped in banana leaves) and a sensational snagger stall. We felt like we were home having a barbie, chowing down a wild selection of spicy sausages served with sweet chilli sauce, scud chillies, cucumber, raw cabbage, snake beans, all washed down with a "couple" of icy cold lagers.

At around 2.30pm a motorbike with a side car rocks up with about 15 different curries and braises. By the time we leave behind the snags, womble to the end of the street and back, it's time to knock off a plate of rice with a brilliant penang pork curry with loads of thai basil that will set you back a whole dollar.

Buckets Up

Any coastal location in Thailand is well stocked with small plastic buckets, not for building sand castles, but for filling with a special beverage.

This unique beverage sells for 150-300 baht ( $5-$10 AUS) depending on the spirit. A traditional bucket involves : ice, hip flask of sangsom whisky, coke/ redbull and always a handful of straws (variations of spirits available). Have by yourself or share with friends, a great conversational, communal drink. Word to the wise: caution to those who don't share !

Produce market, Nakhon Si Thammarat

The fresh produce at this market matches the high standard and vibrancy as elsewhere in Thailand. Here, however we found the locals encouraging us to sample some of the more interesting items.

Perhaps for their entertainment or perhaps ours, we were handed things such as : cured fish, sour unidentified vegetables, pliable spun sugar waifer and chewie sesame doughnuts.

We saw an unusual crustation, 'mantis prawn' (which apparently they deep fry) and live catfish were clubbed to death to order. The amazing variety and quality of mushrooms stood out amongst the vegetables ; fresh woodear, oyster and straw. There were a large amount of fresh curry pastes; red, green, yellow, sour orange, panang and mussaman on display, surrounded by mounds of shrimp paste. The whole experience was eye opening and nasal flaring!

Festival of the Tenth Lunar Month

This festival is a big event in southern Thailand and represents the Buddist tradition of honouring the dead during 15 days in September. We observed how the people of Nakhon Si Thammarat appeased the spirits with offerings of food; the living get to indulge in delicious specialities as well!

The historic city ( and rumoured Thai-Mafia hub ) of Nakhon Si Thammarat, in the southern province of the same name, offers a great opportunity for watching the celebration of the Tenth Lunar Month. As Nakhon is not particually touristy, the people were excited to include outsiders in the events. Buddists believe the dead have sins and are sent to Hell as Demons. During the Festival, the Demons come to visit their relatives who provide offerings of food, to make peace and gain merit. We enjoyed sampling speciality foods, which were beautifully presented at the stalls in the grounds of Wat Phra Mahathat, where much of the action was taking place.

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Ruen Mai's Nam Prik

"Ruen Mai" (Maharaj Rd, Krabi); the setting is tranquil with water features and manicured lush tropical garden. It is a popular local eating haunt and after trying the food, we can understand why.

The beautiful presentation and outstanding quality of the food at Ruen Mai, inspired us to take a look behind the scenes. The kitchen was large and airy, with stainless steel benches. It was clean and well maintained, despite a couple of cats to dodge underfoot. The working sections of the kitchen were split into 5 sections : wok, deep fry, curries, salads and one girl responsible for making nam prik. The working atmosphere was relaxed yet productive.

Nam Prik is an important part of a Thai diet ; basically it is a chilli dip consisting of palm sugar, fish seasoning, garlic and lime juice. Variations include adding shellfish or beetle. Always accompanied by raw vegetables and fresh herbs which may include; beetle leaf, seaweed and thai eggplant ( amongst others ). Good as a starter or a healthy snack.

NAM PRIK KUNG SOD

In a mortor pound ; 5 birdseye chilli, 2 tsp shrimp paste; make to a smooth paste consistancy.

Add: half tbsp palm sugar, 15ml lime juice. mix until palm sugar is dissolved.

Add: 2 tbsp poached shrimp (baby prawn), 1 finely chopped shallot. crush and mix lighty with pestle.

Serve with beetle leaf, snake beans, coriander , thai eggplant or omelette.

Ruen Mai Restaurant

'Ruen Mai' restaurant (Maharaj Rd, Krabi) came highly recommended for an authentic dining experience. From an extensive menu covering the complete repertoire of Thai cuisine our selections included;

"Yam Tua Pu" (wing bean salad).

Blanched wing beans, chilli, kaffir lime leaf, pomello and cooked prawns were tossed thru a dressing of lime juice, fish sauce, shrimp paste and sugar.

Finished with toasted coconut, shallot , flossy prawn and served with roasted cashew nuts and a boiled egg for balance.

80 Baht ; $2.85 AUD.

"Yam Makeur Poa" (roasted eggplant and coconut milk salad).

The flesh of charred eggplant (skin removed), was poached in coconut milk, garlic, chilli, fish sauce and sugar. The poached eggplant and sauce was then tossed with shallot, coriander, mint, chilli and crispy shallot.

Served with a boiled egg and fresh cucumber.

80 Baht ; $2.85 AUD.

"Kaeng Prik Neva" (ball tearing beef curry).

" Possibly the hottest curry we have ever had!"

Thin slices of beef were fried in red curry paste with palm sugar, fish sauce and kaffir lime leaf. Fresh bunches of whole green pepper corns, red birdseye chilli and long green and red chillies added.

This dry curry had a small pool of juice at the bottom of the dish. Every mouthful was searingly hot, but very addictive. Boy didn't we pay for it the day after!

90 Baht ; $3.20 AUD.

We enjoyed the food so much we returned the following day to take a look around the kitchen and try a few more dishes. Another stand out was:

"Gaeng Som Pla" ( Sour orange fish curry).

A gaeng som doesn't use coconut cream and is based on tamarind. It seems almost 'unmasked' and quite sharp, fragrant and hot. On this particular occasion there were large pieces of snapper, lemongrass, tomato, kaffir lime leaf, chilli and a local flower; Sesban, which had a stumpy green stem and a white and orange tinged bulb.

90 Baht ; $3.20 AUD