The "Humble" Samosa

Walking through the local market in Bundi, I came across a large crowd surrounding a little stall. Behind the "hungry" eyes were three men. Two of them were making fresh samosas, whilst the other guy was fishing out about 50 piping hot samosas from a huge wok of oil. He would then place a samosa on a piece of newspaper, squash it, then pour over 2 sauces, one a spicy, sweet, tangy one, the other a dahl.

One of these super fresh, swimming samosas cost only rps3 (AUS 0.08c). It was no wonder there was a huge crowd hanging around! It made me reflect on the take away food business, and how important it is in a place like India. It provides everyone with nutrition, great flavour, and all at an affordable price. I'm sure there are many people who look forward to this little stand opening every afternoon, and I was surely glad I had stumbled across it too!

The variety of snacks deep fried on the side of the road in India is immense. The flavour, freshness and price are the three things which stand out the most. All you need is some form of table, a wok and some oil, and your open for business. You can spend all day wandering and not set foot inside a restaurant, and still be well fed and entertained. This amusing side show starts early and finishes late, and will cost you only a handfull of rupees, plus your life story told on repeat.

The "Indian" Smile

Although I am finding it quite hard to translate into appropriate words many of my Indian experiences, there is a small story which I will try and tell justly. It is so typical of day-to-day life here, but the impact it has on you is immeasurable.

I was walking with a friend late one evening down by the Ganges on Dasaswamedh Ghat in Varanasi. It was a very cold night. There was an older man , most likely with no family, and definitely no home. He was lying directly on the icy cold concrete, under a wooden bench. He had a dirty, paper thin blanket, a tiny candle which he was curling his fragile body around, settling in for the long night ahead.

As we walked past, he stuck his head up, and with one of those beautiful Indian smiles, greeted us in a language that wasn't his native tongue, a "good evening".

So if you think your having a bad day, or someone or something is annoying you, just think about the millions of people without family, friends or someplace to call home, who can still manage a loving smile for a complete stranger.

Gopal Guesthouse, Jodhpur

There are 3 generations of family living and working in this heart warming, super friendly guesthouse. I was nursing a tender tummy(post 30 hours of the squirts) upon my arrival, and was given a family remedy to help my "iron gut" return to it's natural state.

Unfortunately I could only stay for a few days as I had a pre-arranged plan to meet friends in another town. Gopal is the type of place where 2 weeks would fly by before you realized, such is the friendliness of the family. When they found out I was a chef, I was in the kitchen immediately. They were desperate to improve their "western food" repertiore. My bare-footed lessons included spaghetti and tomato sugo, french toast, poached eggs, greek salad and roast chicken and roast vegies( the later been done in a gas tandoori oven!). In the meantime, I was in turn shown a few local treats.

The rooftop sitting area overlooks the magnificent Meherangarh Fort and is a wonderful place to sit, drink chai and discuss life with Mr. Shatki. Without sounding too cliche, it eally is that home away from home. When it was time to (begrudginly) leave, the family refused to accept any money for the food and drink my "back to normal stomach" had consumed. They also gave me a small gift for the few dishes I had showed them. The genuine hospitality shown at Gopal Guesthouse exemplifies Indian culture and it is the only place you should stay if you ever find yourself in the magical town of Jodhpur.

Taking off with LAM

When we stop to work it may be for extended periods of time, example one year. This gives us time to take in the town, city or island community we are contributing to. Some experiences are outstanding, some not so good, a golden rule we travel by is the people make the place and the good food is just a bonus!

If you have been thinking of taking off around the world but don't think you can leave your job behind, family, pet or comforts. Think again you can and you should! It's easy to travel, well no, it's challenging, tiring and sometimes alittle hairy (you know what I mean), but the rewards are life lasting. The people you meet along the way open some many paths, opportunities lay around every corner, life becomes a choose your own adventure.

Everybody travels now adays, oldies are out there with backpacks, families with kids, single women with toddlers, the list goes on and on......

Ok so maybe you don't think you've got the money, it's so expencive with airfairs, travel insurance, vaccinations and general living expences. It's true these things are expensive, you folk out thousands of dollars sometimes before you have even left your home country, so save a little harder before you go. Don't have that third, fourth or even fifth drink, take public transport instead of a cab, cut back on your smoking, eat dinner at home, stop getting take away coffee, cutting back on little things goes further than you think.

So you've done it you've saved your money, you've got your ticket (and the rest) your on your way. How long do you think you want to be away? From our experience it's a bad question to ask yourself, just be away and see where the journey takes you. The options for extending your finances are limit less wether you have a working visa or not, from voluntry work, to cash in hand there are always options, you just have to want them.

And the food, OH THE FOOD, wine and good times .......................

Sathi Lassi, The Best in the World???

Sathi's lassis' can be found in his aplty named shop, Sathi Lassi, on Chorbhuja Rd in Bundi. Bundi is a 4 hour bus ride south from Pushkar, in Rajasthan. His lassi is flavoured saffron, sugar, honey, cardamon, cashew nut, pistachio and raisins.The flavour is highly addictive and the texture is fantastic. It is so full of goodies, that instead of the usual straw, it must be eaten with a spoon.

Sathi makes only 50, fresh every morning, and sells for a bargain Rps20. They are approx 350mls, and one is generally not enough, they are that good!

"Dr" Sathi is a bit of a one-stop-shop, and he is always sporting a big grin and is up for a chat. He also sells a sticky sweet fruit and nut "confection", that will give you an altered view of Bundi town! Beware!

The South Indian Thali

There is always a central theme of rice, a couple varieties of dhal, rasam(a tamarind vegetable broth), pickle, puri(fried flat bread) or chappati and curd.It can be either basic or extremely glamourous. Prices can vary from Rps20(Aus0.60) to Rps 200(Aus$6.00).The accompaniments are spooned over the rice, which you then mix with your fingers to form small balls, then scoop in to your mouth. More rice and accompaniments will be provided until, with a wave of your hand, you indicate you have had enough.

Some of the delicous thalis from the coastal states of Goa and Kerala include a stunning wet fish curry and a separate piece of marinated, crispy fried fish. Washed down with a cold Kingfisher and the palm lined beaches a mere flip-flop away, life doesn't get much better.

The adjoining photo is from the Mango Tree restaurant in Hampi, a gorgeous garden setting overlooking the river, and will set you back Rps50(Aus$1.40)

Land of Extremes

An old friend once said to me, "When you go to India, the most important thing you can pack, is your sense of humour!" After some time on the road, you begin to understand how very important this is. India is a place of contrasts. You must also come here with an open mind and an open heart. Don't try to understand it and don't try and change it, and whatever you do, never judge it.

India's contrasts are as varied as it's population of 1.3 billion! You can be walking knee deep in monsoon rain in the south, while there are millions of people in the north wondering if they will ever see another drop of rain in their lifetime. You can stand at the railway stationand watch an orderly, quiet, well dressed few hop into an air conditioned 1st class compartment, while at the other end of the train, a manic crowd symbollic of an all out riot, fight their way to a seat in the 3rd class carriage. But rest assured, the poor farming family, rich in generosity and smiles, will be the first to offer you some of their delicious home prepared meal, a refusal will not be accepted. You will be walking down the street wafting in open air sewerage, and just before you start dry wretching, the air will be thick with the sweet smell of sandalwood or some freshly cooked samosas.

India is a land of extremes, it is, hot, wet, green, dry, colourful, noisy, smelly, clean, manic, calm, disorganized, methodical, spiritual, friendly, confronting, hilarious, harsh, povert stricken, happy, graceful, historical, powerful, optimistic, India is absolutely everything!

And everwhere there are cows.

Ran Thammachat (natural restaurant)

Many restaurants in Phuket entised return visits. Of these 'Ran Thammachat' on Soi Phuton and the 'Hokien Noodle Shop' on the circle fountain roundabout were stand outs.

The relaxed atmosphere of dining in a tree house, with quirky alcoves and tv set fish tanks, makes Ran Thammachat worth a mention; not taking from the food in any way. Served up is traditional Thai fare from all regions; the Tom Yam served in a coconut shell with fresh young flesh was out standing.

A good range of dishes for meat lovers to try:

Duck Larp: Duck mince fried with chilli, lime and roasted rice (served with greens on the side).

Marinated bbq pork neck: A rich, juicy, tender, sticky cut. Lingering smokey flavour left you hankering for more.

Crispy catfish salad: The drying of the fish is a slow drawn out process. Taking days to produce a fluffy, flossy, airy flesh, mellow in flavour for such a strong tasting fish. We were all suprised by this dish, not really knowing what to expect. The texture was crisp, crunchy and slightly chewy. A typical garnish for this dish is mango salad (see LAM bits).

Hor Mok: Steamed fish mousse wrapped in banana leaf (cup like). A light mixture of fish, egg, red curry paste, lime leaf and coconut milk is steamed to a spongy consistancy.

'Hokien Noodle Shop', as the name states, serves up fresh hokien noodles wet or dry. Dry seemed to tickle our fancy and we returned for a daily dose of the hearty goodness.

A noodle dish consisted of; fresh home made noodles, bbq pork, crispy crackling (always the best part and always found at the bottom of the bowl), shrimp, chives and bean sprouts. A good drizzel of soy based malasis gave the noodles the edge. Garnish was always a spoon of black pepper and crushed peanuts. Served on the side was a bowl of lightly prawn flavoured broth, peppery and aromatic.

The shop is the front room of their house complete with family photos and antiques.

Night market, Hua Hin

Hua Hin is a small town situated on the north east gulf of Thailand. Being a coastal town, seafood features strongly on all menus. The night market has all the usual bling, but the seafood on offer is the highlight.

The night market is held is held on Dechanuchit Rd, and the stall on the corner of Srasong Rd, out the front of the Siam commercial Bank, is my favourite.

I first visited this place 2 years ago, and it was great to see that nothing has changed. It is still run by the same family. The whole street is filled with stalls selling super fresh seafood, and they are all vying for your dollar. I was first attracted to this particular stall as they were the only ones without a tout out the front. It was like they had a quiet confidence in what they were doing, and left it up to you to make up your own mind. I have never regretted it.

On my recent visit, the hot n' sour prawn salad brought tears to my eyes, and big smiles to all the staff, especially the chef. The salad, Aus$3, is made up of lightly poached prawns, lemongrass, mint, shallots, scud chillies, lime juice and fish sauce. The prawns are poached in stock for a matter of seconds, before being tossed with the remainder of ingredients. Super fresh simplicity. Another night I devoured a green curry of prawns, Aus$4, filled with thai eggplant, shallots, scuds and kaffir lime leaves, which also left me reaching for my beer. Although it was sensationally hot, I had to finish all of it as the flavour was addictive.

Hopefully I can return again in the not too distant future.

Siam Winery, Floating Vineyards in Thailand

I was fortunate enough to be shown around the winery and the nearby floating vineyards. The winery is itself a state of the art complex with an ultra modern tasting room.

The "floating" vineyards are quite unique. The vines are planted on raised soil beds that are surrounded by channels of water. The water level varies according to the season. One interesting concept is the way the vines are trained into a pergola to form a canopy of leaves, thus protecting the grapes being scorched by the sun. Another noticeable difference is that there are 2 vintages per year.

Of the wines I sampled, the two stand-outs for me were the Monsoon Valley Malaga Blanc and the Monsoon Valley Pokdum.

The Malaga Blanc, a grape originally from the south of France, is a light bodied wine with a crisp and fresh finish. It would go well with a variety of seafood dishes, especially salads, and also a green curry. The Pokdum, a grape originating in Thailand, had some lovely spicey characters and is medium bodied. It would also go well with a variety of spicy dishes , especially a Thai beef salad or a Red duck curry.

All the wines produced by Siam Winery are made with the Thai cuisine in mind. You can organize a visit to the winery and have a matching food and wine luncheon. It was a wonderful experience visiting the winery and I would especially like to thank Ms. Waraphorn and Ms Kae for their immense hospitality.

Night market in Hua Hin

The night market is held is held on Dechanuchit Rd, and the stall on the corner of Srasong Rd, out the front of the SiamCommercial Bank, is my favourite.

I first visited this place 2 years ago, and it was great to see that nothing has changed. It is still run by the same family. The whole street is filled with stalls selling super fresh seafood, and they are all vying for your dollar. I was first attracted to this particular stall as they were the only ones without a tout out the front. It was like they had a quiet confidence in what they were doing, and left it up to you to make up your own mind. I have never regretted it.

On my recent visit, the hot n' sour prawn salad brought tears to my eyes, and big smiles to all the staff, especially the chef. The salad, Aus$3, is made up of lightly poached prawns, lemongrass, mint, shallots, scud chillies, lime juice and fish sauce. The prawns are poached in stock for a matter of seconds, before being tossed with the remainder of ingredients. Super fresh simplicity.

Another night I devoured a green curry of prawns, Aus$4, filled with thai eggplant, shallots, scuds and kaffir lime leaves, which also left me reaching for my beer. Although it was sensationally hot, I had to finish all of it as the flavour was addictive.

Hopefully I can return again in the not too distant future.

What you get for your Baht!

Our view of what you pay for in a Thai guesthouse!

Staying as cheaply as possible is sometimes cramped, dirty and loud. You can wake up in the morning with a few more itches you just can't scatch, your bag half emptied and a stench from the leaking water source down the hall.

But when you find a ripper you are stoked and often find yourself staying longer than you first intended. (Well we seem to anyway)

Opium Trade

“After France annexed Laos in 1893, opium monopolies were established to finance the heavy initial expense of colonial rule. The French imported over 60 tons of opium per year from the middle east.”

Opium poppy cultivation expanded in South East Asia during the 1950’s mostly due to the suppression of Chinese people and a decline in imports from the Middle East due to them becoming increasingly expensive.

Today Thailand is opium free and Laos no longer supplies to the illicit drug market. The Laos government has been trying to eliminate poppy crops for the past 8 years but unfortunately the crops have been wiped out faster than the farmers can find alternative sources of income. Therefore the cultivation continues but on a much smaller scale than in the previous century.
Harvest continues in remote mountainous and poor areas in the northern provinces of Laos.

Addiction usually affects middle age to elderly men, often making them incapable of contributing to the family income and well being. Lao women unfortunately bore the task of working the field, waking early and walking for many hours up steep mountainous terrain to tend the crops. Labor is very physical and trying for these often frail women who then have to return home to opium dependent spouses.

Guesthouse Improvements

Due to up coming events; 2009 SEA games and 2010 celebrates the 450th anniversary of the establishment of Vientiane. Changes in guesthouse standards are on the rise, unfortunately so too are the number of tourists and the amount of noise.

Gone will be the days of sharing one squatter loo with 20 people!

From the 10th June guesthouses must have at least 15 rooms with adequate facilities. Guesthouses are being evaluated for upgrade or shutdown. Those that do not make the grade will most likely be guttered and turned into restaurants or mini markets.

The capital currently houses 5000 hotel and guesthouse rooms, by 2009 it will house

10 000.

Improvements will lift many prices outside the range of budget travellers, forcing them further from the city centre (not that it's a big city) to the outskirts, for a different Laos experience in Vientiane.

Chicken on the run!

Best chicken in town is how the locals rate it. So keen to try KHU VENG FRIED CHICKEN, I raced down on my bycicle licking my lips. As I pulled to a hault in front of the store I noticed the shutters were drawn and the empty space where the chicken lady sells to the masses. I WAS GUTTED!

I stood in bewilderment, motorbike after motorbike pulled to the curb 2,3 sometimes 4 people with similar displays of disappointment.

I'll try again tomorrow!

From 5pm til sold out (most nights) the chicken lady has a line up past the two giant woks bubbling away and onto the street.

For 6000 kip ( 80c AUS) you get a piece of crispy southern style chicken and a handful of house cut chips. Bagged chilli and tomato sauce is your choice.

Dine in or take away.

Located on Thanon Khu Vieng (look for the line up of people, you can't miss her).

What the!

Is that a turd in your hand? Are you seriously going to eat that? What the!

NO, IT'S A SOAKED BANANA!

It may look like something you wouldn't even pick up, let alone put it in your mouth, but this soaked dried banana is actually a delicious treat between meals.

The banana's are soaked in a rich dark sugar syrup for a couple of days then placed on racks of bamboo to dry. The process takes about five days depending on the weather. The result is a chewy, sweet, tangy sensation that gives a warming to the belly and leaves a rich caramelized flavour in your mouth.

Often seen around town in a lighter shade of brown, the darker almost blackened banana's came from the organic market. To my mind they are a better product than the lighter non organic, due to greater care being taken as they are not mass produced or maybe the banana's themselves hold better flavour (characteristic of organic produce) and a higher sugar content.

Excuse Me

Kuching Sunday market on Saturday

The most amazing aspect of this market was the freshness. The cow had been slaughtered that morning, with no refrigeration available, it had no problems selling.

They would only slaughter what they needed to sell that day.

It is a great example of supply and demand, everything is sold completely fresh, and at it's prime.

You Tube, we made it!

After months of travelling and recording data, we have finally downloaded some shorts to utube. If green olives cured in a sweet brine and coated with sugary, chilli syrup raise some interest in you, keep an eye out for our food adventures.

We have four videos broadcasting at the moment and are planning on downloading more. We encourage you to make comments on our videos and watch for home cooking demonstrations being broadcast from our kitchen in Vientiane.
To see our videos search; www.youtube.com/LooseAppetiteMovemen

Our features are;

Flies Off My Sweet,Sweeties!

Sago Worm

Food Glourious Food

2am Starving in KL.

Moon The Night, Mekong Restaurant

Off the beaten tourist track, the beer is cheaper, the crowd is friendlier and the menu even larger. Moon The Night is local restaurant positioned over the Mekong, keep following Thanon Fa Ngum, along the river, and wind thru the neighborhood until you come to the sign.

We tried the sour fried sausage accompanied by the usual garlic, ginger and mint.
It was the burned dried cattle skins that took the prize however. At first they seemed fatty and chewy, a real workout for ones jaw. An acquired taste!

After a couple I worked out the technique of nibbling the delicious crunchy outer layer. The intense BBQ flavour of the hide was perfectly matched to beer.

Other delights on the menu included:

Red eel curry
Minced ostrich meat
Spicy frog soup
Appendix salad in chilli sauce
Fried kaffir lime leaf with sauce
Dipped jellyfish
BBQ beef offal

What a way to spend Sunday afternoon!
This large restaurant was full of locals eating and drinking. We sat on the balcony and watched the silky Mekong rush by as fishermen pulled in their hauls.

Wat,Wat,Wat!

What is there to see and do in Vientiane? Take a tuk-tuk or hire a bike for 14 000 kip a day ($1.80 Aus) and get around to a couple of the historical temples. This should keep you busy for a couple of hours…

WAT SI SAKET
A mystical temple housing thousands of small Buddha images (6840). Seated and standing Buddha’s of varying size and materials (wood, stone, silver and bronze) rest on shelves, most of them are sculpted in the characteristic Laos style.
Damaged images from days of war are also housed here; some have or are being restored.
Around the grounds you will find many coconut, banana and mango trees.

WAT SI MUANG
Is the site of the cities pillar and considered the home of the guardian spirit. Worth a look at the ‘jataka’, figures associated with stories of Buddha’s past.

Get blessed for your travels by a monk for a small donation. He showers you with holy water while chanting, he then ties coloured woven string around your wrist to warn off bad spirits. The tie must remain on your wrist a minimum of 3 days, for best results most people wait until the string falls off of its own accord.

WAT ONG TEL MAHAWIHAN
One of the most important in Laos originally built in the mid 16th century.
A school for visiting monks from all over Laos to study Dhamma (Buddha’s teachings).
The temple houses a large 16th century bronze Buddha weighing several tones. There is also a wooden façade over the front terrace that is considered a masterpiece of Laos carving.

WAT SOK PA LUANG
Famous for herbal saunas. “You are not supposed to wash away built up perspiration for 2 to 3 hours after a sauna. This supposedly allows the herbs to soak into your pores.

PHA THAT LUANG
(Great Stupa)
The most important monument in Laos. A symbol of both Buddhist religion and Laos sovereignty.
“Legend has it that Askoken missionaries from India erected the stupa to enclose a piece of breastbone of Buddha as early as the 3rd century BC.”
The top of the stupa resembles an elongated lotus bud and is said to symbolize the growth of a lotus from a seed in a muddy bottom to a bloom over the lakes surface. A metaphor for human advancement from ignorance to enlightenment in Buddhism.

Asian Vanilla Bean

Pandanas is used extensively in Thai, Malay, Chinese and Indian cooking to lightly flavour rice and desserts. It is described as a long, strong leaf with the ability to release chemicals into surrounding absorbents during the cooking process. Many European chefs have compared the use and strength of pandanas to that of the vanilla bean.

BAI TOEY HOM; Pandanas, is found throughout Asia and Hawaii; it grows in the form of a leaf from the pandanas palm tree. It has many uses, not only does it flavour dishes it is commonly used as a protective layer in the BBQing of fish and chicken and can be used to house goods sold on street corners throughout Asia.

As Asian flavours are becoming more and more common in western countries so to are the ingredients once regarded almost impossible to find. These days’ pandanas leaves can be found in any good Asian shop, kept in the freezer section for longer life.

Sesame Pandanas Jelly
Sold all around town, the pandanas jelly houses a stringy fresh coconut paste. The jelly is set firm and the pandanas flavour is subtle. The toasted sesame breaks the sweetness and offers an earthy savory balance.
A bag of fresh pastries containing 2 coffee perfiteroles, 2 chinese red bean pastries and 2 pandanas jellies costs 10 000 kip ($1.25 Aus). They blend perfectly with a strong Laos style coffee.


Pan Fatt Kou (Steamed pandan cake; Chinese recipe)

Ingredients (A):
150g water lily flour
30g rice flour
2 tsp baking powder
150g castor sugar

Mix (B): 200ml santan (coconut milk)
Quarter tsp pandan essence

Method: Prepare a steamer, bring to boil. Arrange Chinese tea cups and steam well.

Mix ingredients (A) in a mixing bowl.
Add in (B) gradually and use a hand whisk to mix.
Sieve the batter.
Pour into the hot tea cups and steam over rapid boiling water for 25 minutes

Squid & Doc Kae Salad (Yum Budsaba)

Pieces of white squid and Doc Kae (a tree flower) make up this typical Northern Thai spicy salad. This meal is fantastic for a light meal on a hot summer's day. Wash down with a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.

Squid & Doc Kae Salad (Yum Budsaba)

Ingredients

• Spices
• 1/2 x Lettuce
• 2 x Tomato
• 500g Squid Pieces
• Peanut Oil
• 2 x Chilli

Procedure

1. Cook Squid in Chillii & Oil
2. Toss Salad
3. Mix Squid & Salad

Serves 3~4. Wash down with a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.

Living the rich life!

If you enjoy feeling rich without actually being rich Laos is the destination for you. Bundles of 10 000, 20 000 and 50 000kip bills are in circulation, millions of kip pass through your fingers daily. Unfortunately they are only just worth the paper they are printed on. Life's great when you can live off $10 AUS a day, including a few beers as you watch the sun go down over the Mekong at the end of another hard day in southeast asia.

For breakfast you can indulge in a fresh baked baguette which is a blend of rice and wheat flour. These come plain for 3000kip (40c AUS) or fill them with pate, salad and flossy pork. A cup of rich strong Laos coffee kick starts your heart for a mere 3000kip.

Lunch time is great for a bowl of noodle soup, fine rice noodles cooked to perfection come in a bowl of steaming pork based broth with fresh greens, chunks of meat (your choice; pork, chicken, duck or beef) and crispy pork crackling. 7000kip (90c AUS).

Freshly squeezed fruit juice and shakes are avaliable on every corner for just 5000kip (70c AUS).

Dinner time, well anything goes! In Vientiane there are many restaurants serving up local cusine, French, Italian, Indian or Korean, there are even a few steak houses to be found. Depending on what's your flavour you can spend as little as 14 000kip ($1.80 AUS) or as much as 300 000kip ($38 AUS) for Foi Gras in the best French restaurant in town.

We keep it cheap so there is more kip for beer Laos! On the Mekong you pay for the view at 10 000kip a large bottle ($1.30 AUS), small bars around charge 7 000 to 8 000kip ($1 AUS) but if you buy from a distributor you can pick up a case (12 large bottles) for 63 000kip ($8 AUS).

1 litre bottles of 'Two Elephants' drinking water will set you back 1 000kip (15c AUS).

Eating and drinking around Laos is a fun,cheap way to mingle with locals and get a feel for there lifestyle.

They do love to eat!

Finding your "Happy" place

It seems that in this part of the country, "Happy" is a way of life. Unfortunately, in preserving this unique "island", the exact location must remain undisclosed. It is somewhere in the south, and the only way to get there is by boat.

This particular part of the Mekong is splattered with green, leafy islands.The depth of water, as well as the clarity, depends on the season. Nothing happens here too quickly, so you are best to just sit back, relax and watch the river go by.

It feels amazing to be in a place where nobody is concerned with rushing about, the river moving faster than anything, or anyone else, for that matter. It may well have something to do with the "happy" vibe found in many restaurants there.

Some of my favourite menu choices were, "All fried dinners will happily be made happy for 5oookip ($0.50), happy wedding party, happy birthday cake, please specify how happy you want your birthday cake. Tours, all tours are always knowledgeable, safe, memorable, and, of course, happy".

My personal favourite, "Hangover Brunch, scrambled eggs, garlic margarine, cheese baguette, french fries, 500mg paracetemol, 10mg valium, cold pepsi, fruit salad. US$4.00", which can if course be made happy!

Every couple of weeks, someone in the village may slaughter a cow, and it's roast dinner night. The beast is open roasted on the footpath, the incredible smell unescapeable. It will set you back about US$4.50 and includes salad, fries, bread, a few shots of local whisky and the biggest plate of meat you have ever encountered.

Just what you need after a day in the hammock.

Oiy's Bakery

The extreme south of Laos is home to Si Phan Don, or 4000 islands. There are many hidden treasures in this laid back and peaceful part of the world. A big surprise was a wonderful bakery run by the friendly Oiy, aka Darren, from Western Australia.

A short stroll through the village of Don Det will lead you to the Lamphone guesthouse. Adjoining this guesthouse is Oiy's bakery. Oiy, aka Darren, was born in Mount Barker in Western Australia. He did his baking apprenticeship in the seaside town of Dunsborough, the gateway to the world famous Margaret River wine region.

A holiday in SE Asia turned into something a bit more permanent. Darren really enjoyed the laid back style of southern Laos, and it's super friendly folk. So much so that he decided to set up his own bakery. Darren imported the bakers oven from neighbouring Thailand, along with all his other baking equipment. His day generally begins at around 9.00am, quite rare for a baker.

He prepares all his goods by about 3.30, sells some from the deck of the guesthouse, overlooking the Mekong. Then he packs all the remaining goodies into specially designed trays he stores on his push bike, and pedals his wears to the guesthouses around Don Det, first in, best dressed, of course.

You can choose from gorgeous baguettes, mushroom foccacias, carrot and chocolate cakes, and at least 3 varities of moorish donuts, cinnamon sugar, chocolate or banana and chocolate.

Decisions, decisions.

Stop Over

Finished work, oh what a feeling! On route back to Southeast Asia I had a stop over in Brisbane catching up with family and friends, reuniting with Megan, seeing Luke... Plus having a day at the football.

No day at the football is complete without some footy food. We indulged in a chicko roll, hot chips, hot dog and of course the good old Aussie Pie. Just like I remember it fatty, crumbly pastry with chunks of some kind of meat and thick sauce combining the inners, what a treat.

Megan and I were lucky enough to be in town for a fair trade fashion show where fibres and textiles were on display from various undeveloped nations. Local designers are proud to showcase these resources and nobody is taken advantage of in the production of items.

We caught up with Luke who is now working in Noosa (Australia), no doubt enjoying the sun, surf n turf!

But the time has come to get back to southeast asia for the cost of living in Australia is killing me........................

Wild Foods

The small town of Hokitika is host to an outrageous food festival that has been up and running for 17yrs. Locals and foreigners alike come from miles around to take part in the festivities. Over the years it seems the food has tamed, but you can still get your laughing gear around some wildfoods......

The festival was held on March 10 (2007) and seems always to be around this time from year to year. Each year is themed differently for culinary purposes and fancy dress. This year was a French theme, ooh ooh ooh say it frenchie, chowder! Do you think I found any, NO!

People were dressed in the traditional red scarf, stripped shirt, white pants and beret, the more outlandish took the Where's Wally approach. It's not just restricted to themed dress up however, there were clowns, sheep, devils and my favourite: (start wearing purple,wearing purple for me now Jada -see LAM friends) dressed all in purple, occasioanlly blowing the rickshaw horn, the number 1 jimmer, dazzled!

That sort of sets the scene now lets get to the food.

Hu Hu Grubs; a big attraction, available cooked or raw, they are a small native grub that tastes like hazelnut. Funny the way so far along my travels I have indulged in one grub or another, its seems every country has a worm they are proud to eat.

Pickled Fish Eye Sushi; a pink coloured eye of a large fish (maybe snapper or gropper) was placed on a sushi roll, wasabi and soy was your choice. TRUELY HORRID!

Paua Paddy; a flour, egg and possibly potato batter with paua folded thru was pipped onto a BBQ. It looked like a black pancake and tasted of saltwater and mushroom. Try as I did , I couldn't get the secret recipe out of the chef.

Smoked Boar & Mussel Skewers; possibly the nicest thing I ate all day. New Zealand's beautiful large green lip mussels, suprisingly tender for their size matched well with the slight gaminess of the boar and the subtle smokey flavour.

Horse Burger; I felt like I was eating PAL (dog food)!

Bull Tail Curry; tender pieces of meat with a more robust flavour than ox tail, was cooked roganjosh style, YUMMIE!

Possum Jerkie; a little under dried for my liking and quite a non-descript flavour.

Possum Pie; "Possums are seen as a pest in New Zealand, destroying huge amounts of native forest. When you sample our pie you are helping save New Zealand forests." (Possum Pete, Wildfoods Festival,2007) Possum pie is produced in Pukekura, population 2.
Unfortunately, I did not do my part.

Cow Utter; utterly weird! Rubbery,fatty bite size that tasted of nothing for a few seconds then an over powering unpasturized, off-milk flavour hit and lingered.

I also indulged in some specialised drinks from Fiji; Karva: tongue numbing and Fire Water: reminded me of Malibu rum.

In all, it's a great festival that the everybody really gets involved in. Don't miss the 100+ bonfires on the beach Friday and Saturday nights, in fact some people only come to the festival for interaction between fires.

Character pool!

I met plenty of people from all over the world during my time in New Zealand. I lived and worked with a German, an Alaskian, a Canadian, two Swedes, two Dutch, an Australian and of course a few New Zealanders. As usual the German was the dodgiest (joke)!

Hasst pub was a great spot to mingle with the locals, my favourite became a 74yrs young, electrician by trade, now whitebaiter 'CUZ'. He was always up for a chat about his younger days, rhubarb chutney and of course whitebaiting.

Cuz originally comes from Dunedin, he arrived in Hasst 16 years ago for a job. On completion of this job he planned to return to Dunedin, however an electrical storm hit the region blocking roads and making travel unsafe. He was called in to do some repairs about the town and has been there ever since.

He considers himself a bit of a homebody, infact he has only been to the North Island once and never even dreamt of going overseas. Cuz can be found on any fine afternoon, standing at the bar having a quiet ale.

Oh Canada: I had the pleasue of becoming friends with a crazy country Canadian girl -Jada- who cycles 30 to 40 km on hazardous mountain roads, for fun. Making the most of every opportunity and living life to the fullest is what she is about. I watched Jada go from helping with guided walks, waitressing and general hand, to assistant manager of a wilderness lodge in a few short months. Always helpful, happy and generally a pleasure to be around must have helped, hey!

Day by day monotony was broken by gifts from India from Jada's friend Dave. Who does that? Send random gifts in the mail from distant lands, just for fun. Dave, what a guy! It was like Christmas everytime a package came. Once a rickshaw (bike) horn made of copper arrived, these are no longer made in India. Man, did we get some milage out of blowing that in the silence of the wilderness. BAR POO BAR POO!

Tramping

Getting around on foot is the best way to experience and appreciate the true beauty of New Zealand. Tramping is a term I'd never heard of prior to living in New Zealand, this is what they call hiking for days on end.

Day long walks are common on just about every main road on the south island. Walks can be found that take upto 4-5 days, cabins are located on these trails and reported to be a great social environment after a long hard day of solitude. A bunk is supplied for a small fee but food is your own responsibility.

Around Hasst there are some beautiful trails that lead to hot pools, waterfalls and beaches. If these options don't tickle your fancy there are plenty of mountains to hike up to excape from it all and enjoy the view.

Warning: A huge trend in New Zealand at present, is to hire a campervan and drive the islands. This is a great way to get around independantly and many companies offer good deals. Please however, keep locals in mind when you are driving at 40km\h in an 100km\h zone, stopping on one way bridges to take photos and driving up the middle of winding mountainous roads. Yes, these things all happen regularly and the locals hate it!

42 Below & Beyond

Yeah the weather might be a bit chillier than southeast asia, but the beer and spirits are just as flowing. New Zealand is renowned for its world class beer, wine and quickly catching up with Russian and Scandinavian vodka via their 42 Below brand (also available in vanilla and blackcurrant).

As a beer drinker it was hard for me to go past many of the fine local brews on offer, in fact on only a couple of occasions did I try a fine pinot. 'Two Paddocks', made in the Otago region by Sam Niell's winery, is an example of the spicy, berry flavour of the region.

Living on the south island not too far from Dunedin exposed me to 'SPEIGHT'S; darker than my usual choice of beer but a flavour I soon became accustomed to. Possibly a working man or woman's beer with bitter sweet full bodied flavour. Brewed in Dunedin and great value priced at $33 NZ a carton (24 beers).

Other local beers worth a mention include: Montigues: different flavoured beer for different seasons, eg: Summer (light and fruity), Winter (heavier and creamy), as well as Pilsner, Tui and Mac's Gold.

When I was looking for something harder vodka was my choice. 42 Below was mind bending, no bitter, harsh alcohol swallow, just clean, crisp and smooth. Suprisingly cheap at just $30 NZ for a litre bottle.

There is something about the alcohol in New Zealand, it could be the beautiful fresh clean mountain water giving purity to beverages. The fresh air getting to your head, or the beauty of the environment, whatever, the hangovers are never as horrific here as they are in southeast asia and beyond.

Greenstone

Sure like most towns and cities around the world, there are weekend markets selling trinkets and food stuffs, but if you are in the market for jewels, New Zealand has it's own semi-precious stone, GREENSTONE. It is a water stone that locals believe should not be purchased...

The thrill of a good piece of greenstone comes from either finding it or having somebody give it to you.

A beautiful stone both hard and tough, its lustre improves with age, reputedly as a result of being worn next to the skin. Maoris once used it to make weapons and prized it for its properties of beauty and strength. Many families hand down pieces for generations.

New Zealand greenstone is composed of either nephrite or bowenite, whereas the term jade is restricted to nephrite and another distinct mineral -jadeite- which is not found in New Zealand.

On the south island's west coast there are many pockets where greenstone can be found, if you are patient and look hard enough. Around Jackson Bay is a good spot, getting a locals tip is your best bet!

HAPPY HUNTING!

The greenstone pendant shown, was a gift from a young fisherman whom I had the pleasure to meet over a drink or two or three. He found and polished the stone with his own hands.

Thanks Joel, Megan loves it!

Let's Go Fishing!

The freshwater rivers in New Zealand are a wash with tastie treats. Trout the size of salmon live in abundant numbers. The river mouth is a local tip if you are in search of the BIG ONE.

Warning: a fishing permit is required if fishing in New Zealand.

The Whitebait season runs from April til October, this is a buisy time for many local fishermen (whitebaiters). Many make their yearly wage from the season, fetching upto $120 NZ a kilo for the tiny translucent (baby) fish.

Locals own or lease shacks (often a 3m by 3m fibro box) along river banks. So proud are some, of their role as whitebaiters in the community, shacks have been handed down from generation to generation.

The job of the fisherman is to drop a runway (a wooden L shaped frame lined by a net) into the river, sometimes waiting hours for a good haul. The runway works by trapping the tiny fish as they pool in hundreds and thousands as they get gushed up river systems, making fishing on the incoming tide optimal. Often a fisherman may spend upto 8hrs alone in a shack waiting for a full net, emptying the catch and redropping the runway.

New Zealand whitebait is sold as a delicacy all around the world, simple preparation is the key :

Some people like to flour and deep fry the tiny fish serving with aioli and lemon.

Locals in Hasst prefer to whisk up egg, add the fish and pan fry, calling it a whitebait fritter.

I however think the best result comes from a 1 minute fry in a hot pan with a little salt, a squeeze of lemon juice to finish and served on a plate with some fresh rocquette leaves and mayonaise. DELlCIOUS!

Maori Culture Influence

Maori culture has made good use of the native food sources of New Zealand. Unfortunately for many they are the only ones entitled to consume a number of delicacies. An example I was gagging to try was the 'Wood Pigeon'.

The wood pigeon is a plump bird with rich dark meat flavoured by the wild berries it gorges on. Often these birds are seen and heard swooping and crashing into the trees in the rainforest. The berries get them drunk and they just don't know when enough is enough! The result however is a delectable tasting bird (so rumour has it)!

Paua, is the name of another Maouri favourite - it's a black mollusc with white flesh that sucks onto volcanic rock. It's found off the south west coast of New Zealand.

The trick with paua, as with abalone, is to treat it right and not over cook. A couple of tips:

remove the gut that surrounds the foot

push out 2 small red cased teeth

give 3 -4 bashes to change texture from rigid to limp

soak in fresh milk and kiwi fruit for a number of hours

Once removed from the milk and kiwi liquor, trim the black rubbery flesh back as close to white flesh as possible. Score black side of paua. Fry in hot pan for 1min 30sec, season lightly.

Paua tastes of rich, dense dirty sea - not for those with sensitive seafood palates. The flavour is very powerful and lingers in ones mouth for a good several minutes or so after consumption. A beer always helps wash it down beautifully!

Back to working the mo mo!

After travelling for 5 months it's always hard to put your head down, bum up and get back into work. Having fresh local produce always helps with creativity and inspiration, in my case anyway!

As the sous chef at Lake Moeraki Wilderness Lodge, I cooked for a limited amount of people each night (averaging from 30 to 50 depending). The menu was written daily, meaning I was given the chance to source and utilise fresh produce. With only my imagination to limit me, the environment was perfect for a summer of work and fun (before heading back to south east asia).

Living in a rainforest is a feast for the senses; there are glorious smells in the air and tranquil sounds as life skips past your eyes. Looking around there are many sources of food; ferns, berries and lettuce varieties -all safe to consume. To walk to a river bank and pick vibrant watercress to put on the night's menu (salmon gravalax w broadbean, feta, basil and watercress salad) is exciting. The freshness is to die for! For many chef/cooks this is only a fantasy; but at Lake Moeraki it's reality!

Summer on the South Island's West Coast has been a blast! I've had the chance to deal with seafood straight from the ocean (still kicking), and try some delacacies I've never seen before. One event high on the culinary calendar and not to be missed by those looking for food adventure, is the 'Wildfoods Festival' , (if you are up for the challenge). It's legendary in this part of the world!

Let's go to LAM BITS to discuss more unique New Zealand fare.

Chicken is off the Menu

Go to LAM Bits for some great chicken recipes...But there will be no chicken for the people of Vientiane for a while... the authorities apparently want to wipe out the dreaded Bird Flu once and for all. During the last couple of weeks, all poultry and pet birds in Vientiane have been destroyed. Chickens, ducks and eggs have been confiscated in the markets. Restaurants have been banned from selling poultry.

It's difficult for the people of poor country to deal with. Chickens ( and eggs) are a good source of income and some people who have been selling these products for years are at a loss as to how to make money now. There are no unemployment benefits here.

Rather than hand over the birds to the authorities, many people have had parties and cooked up a feast! Though compensation is promised to those who hand over their birds, no one seems confident of getting much cash in the end.

The government is planning to import more fish and pigs to replace poultry, which until now, has been a major part of the Lao diet. It may be 3-6 months before the familiar wake up call from roosters is heard in Vientiane again.

Recipes from Daen's Dream kitchen

Some winning Lao/Vietnamese recipes from Daen. These were a hit in her cooking class...

Laab Kai ( minced chicken salad)

Note: Lao people chop the meat finely by hand to a mince-like texture. This allows it to be aerated to create a fluffy kind of texture. The roasted rice is sticky rice which is roasted until burnt, then crushed. Breadcrumbs can be used instead.

Ingredients:
150g boiled roughly minced chicken (pork or tofu can be substituted)
1teaspoon of ground chilli (or to taste-fresh if desired)
2 teaspoons ground rice (see above - or dry breadcrumbs)
5 finely sliced shallots
3 finely sliced spring onions
2 long beans thinly sliced
handful of sprouts
1/2 -1 tablespoon fish sauce ( for vego use soy)
2 tablespoons of lime juice
1/2 teaspoon sugar (if desired)
7-8 mint leaves
2 tablespoon finely sliced coriander leaves
lettuce/chinese cabbage/cucumber/long beans/spring onion to serve

Method:Instead of oil, put a little water in the pan first, then cook off the meat, til dry. Put aside when cooked, allow to cool.
Add the chilli, sugar, sprouts, shallots, spring onions, long beans, fish sauce, lime juice, roast rice...toss through.
Add mint leaves and coriander, toss again.
Serve with platter of greens.

Ginger Chicken (simple and delicious)

Ingredients:
vegetable oil
couple of knobs of garlic
sliced fresh ginger
1 tblsp fish sauce
1 tblsp oyster sauce
1 teasp sugar
pepper
large red chilli
green capsicum
quarter of an onion
3 spring onions
a cup of chopped chicken

Method: heat oil, cook off garlic and ginger. Add chicken and cook. Add fish sauce and oyster sauce, sugar, pepper to taste. Throw in the rest of the ingredients. Deglaze with a little water (a tablsp or so).

Vietnamese Noodle Soup (Fer)
Ingredients:

375g rice noodles or vermicelli noodles
6 cups of chicken stock
2 red chillies
a few sticks of fresh ginger
2 garlic cloves
1/2 cup lime juice
1-2 tablesp fish sauce
1 teasp sugar
1 onion, finely sliced
1 tomato, sliced
chives
a few thai basil leaves
3 sprigs coriander- pick leaves to serve and add tied cut roots to stock
450g chicken (trimmed,sliced)
1 bunch bok choy, trimmed
bean sprouts
crispy garlic
coriander leaves to serve
1 red chilli, sliced to serve

Method:
Soften the noodles in boiling water. Drain and put aside.
To the simmering pot of chicken stock, add a quarter of the sliced onion, fish sauce, ginger and chicken slices. Add sugar and coriander roots. Skim the scum from surface.
Place serves of noodles in bowls with bean sprouts, tomato slices, chives, basil leaves, coriander...Add crispy garlic, then pour over liquid. Serve with platter of greens, chilli, etc

Eco Lodge Living

A change from the hustle and bustle of south east asia has given my lungs a break and my taste buds a refreshing change. From months of rice, noodles, curries and soups to bbq crayfish, fresh lamb, venison, cheese and fine wines.

Tune in Alanna!
Living on the remote West Coast of New Zealand has introduced me to life in the rainforest. Surrounded by native food supplies, wildlife and fresh clean air has replenished my lust for good old european flavours. A standout has been the taste of saltwater over freshwater fish and crustations (often farmed in south east asia). The clean fresh flavour opposed to the muddy, dirty flavour I became accustomed to in asia, has been a joy to indulge in.

A short walk thru the rainforest brings you to Monro beach where crayfish up to 2kg are abundant and blue cod (the choice for New Zealand's famous fush n chup's) thrive in the waters.
The lakes around the area sustain trout the size of salmon, 3 metre eels and tiny freshwater crays about the size of a prawn. The numbers of these edible species is so great that on any given day you can see them going about their routines, cruising the waterways. (The temptation to reach down and scoop them out of the water with your bare hands is strong and realistic.)

Lake Moeraki is located about 36km north of the Haast township on highway 6, on the west coast of the south island of New Zealand. The local industries here are whitebait fishing and hunting.

Chansamone

Mone worked like a lucky charm for me during my first months here in Vientiane. She is an intelligent, fun loving and charming person with an eye for the good things in life. She is well known around town and is quite the socialite; as she speaks French and English fluently, and of course her native Lao, she is never at a loss for words with anyone she runs into.

Mone grew up in Vientiane and though she has since married and moved to Switzerland, she regularly returns to catch up with her parents, five sisters, two brothers and many friends. I'm thrilled to have met her during her last visit as she provided many insights into the Lao culture and local social scene. I spent many entertaining occasions with Mone around town and at family gatherings where her and her family displayed the renowned Lao hospitality. Mone is always inspiring and consistantly has ambitious projects on the go. Despite keeping extremely busy with her two young children; cooking, designing, shopping and partying plans are never far from her mind. Her free thinking, outgoing and positive personality make Mone a joy to have as a friend. I look forward to hearing about the development of her cooking school/ catering business in Switzerland.

Kung's Cafe and Dream Kitchen Cooking Class

This is a great spot to kick back in...a little cafe set at the end of a laneway, under a big mango tree. It feels like a wonderful discovery because it is really tucked away. The laneway entrance is opposite the Ministry of Health building which is off Fa Ngum Road (turn left after the Dong Chan Palace Hotel).

Kung’s is open 6am-3pm for breakfast, lunch and excellent Lao coffee. It’s easy to pass hours sitting at Kung’s, amongst beautiful hanging orchids, at tables decorated with fresh frangipani flowers, watching the activities of the locals who live along the lane. The building is an old style wooden house which has been converted underneath to house the cafe, plus an area for teaching English to the locals - and most recently, to cater for a Lao cooking class. Daen is the organizer of the latter concept. Her parents run the cafe, serving up great, inexpensive Lao- Vietnamese food and each afternoon, Daen’s father teaches English to local students. Daen has created ‘Dream Kitchen' to teach the secrets of perfecting local dishes. After learning to cook from her mother and many years of serving up meals to discerning regulars at the cafe, Daen is well experienced in cooking techniques. With her warm personality and natural creativity she is a joy to learn from. The ‘Dream Kitchen' cooking class includes a visit to a local market to shop for fresh produce. That is an experience in itself as there is the opportunity to ask questions and learn about the variety of fresh fruit and vegetables on offer. Because Daen limits the group to about 6 people, there is ample time and attention given to individuals and she is happy to cater for dietary requirements. The cooking classes are well organized and beautifully and efficiently set up. Tea and organic Lao fruit is served in addition to the meals cooked by the students themselves. The ‘Dream Kitchen and Kung’s Cafe utilize fresh, organic produce grown by the family on their farm, not far from of town. A cooking class with Daen costs $US12 per head, which includes a trip to the market, recipe books and a Dream Kitchen apron.

Kin khao laew baw? (eat rice already, no?)

Sticky Rice is the staple of the Lao diet and its flavour and texture make it a popular addition to any meal. From the early hours of the morning -to provide to the Monks on their alms rounds- until the last meal of the day, hot sticky rice is being prepared. While it can be bought ready to eat in local markets for 1000 kip a serve (about 10cents), being able to cook good sticky rice is a necessary skill for living in Lao.

There are many varieties of rice grown in Lao as evidenced by the amazing displays in the markets. The sticky rice is distinctive by its cloudy white colour and particular shaped grains.To cook sticky rice, it is necessary to soak it overnight. Then a large cone shaped bamboo basket is lined with cotton (or a clean chux towel would do) and the rice put inside. This is put on top of a pot of boiling water -the level about 1 inch below the rice- to steam. It takes about 15 minutes and the colour changes from opaque to clear as the rice softens, ready for eating. The rice is served in a traditional bamboo basket and removed at the table as required by using the right hand and rolling into a ball. It is considered bad luck not to replace the lid of the basket after eating.

Just for Fun

You never have to look too hard for good food in Vientiane; there are endless options for enjoying Lao specialties...For a groovy, relaxed atmosphere and good variety of traditional Lao dishes( including vegetarian options), the 'Just for Fun' cafe in Nam Phu is a worthy choice.

'Just for Fun' is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner 6 days (closed sundays). The restaurant is decorated with beautiful local fabrics and traditional handicrafts that are for sale. Also available are a variety of local gourmet products: teas, organic coffee and food items, such as violet scented rice from Northern Lao.
Tui is owner and cook -she prepares and cooks all the meals and receives help from her brother and sisters to manage the daily operations of the cafe.‘Just for Fun' is also renowned around town for its excellent coffee and Tui’s chocolate cake.
Straight across the road is a small noodle shop which has a good trade of regulars. Basic noodle soup and Lao coffee costs 9000 kip ( about a dollar).

The real "Cattle Class"

The bus system in Laos is a little different to the relatively efficient, air conditioned comfort of Malaysia and Thailand. It is also a hell of a lot more entertaining.

You buy your tickets on the bus, once they have tied your backpack to the roof. When the bus is full, it leaves, simple. Before departing from Vientiane, en route to Vang Vieng, theres a procession of girls selling freshly filled baguettes, pastries, water and soft drinks. Most of these "local" buses are held together by dirt and rust. They are filled with an array of goods, anything from sacks of rice, kids tricycles, dvd players, baskets of food, chickens, you name it. There are farmers, monks, old, young, a handful of travelers, all along for the slow, bumpy ride. Of course you can always take the "tourist" VIP bus, but when the price difference is enough for a nights accommodation, and no where near as fun, it's an easy choice. The 3-4 hour ride to Vang Vieng consisted of 1 near miss with a stray, bloody huge buffalo, a 4wd swerving to miss a herd of goats and many near misses with numerous motorcycles, school children and chickens. It was funny to see the older locals complete disregard for the "No Smoking" signs in the bus. The toilet stop was of course, communal, by the side of the road in the dirt. No need to be shy here!

3 Months in Vientiane

The frangipani lined streets, abundance of temples and river side position, give the capital of Lao a tranquil, laid back feel. Despite a turbulant history, the Lao people are welcoming, friendly and fun loving. Vientiane has managed ( so far), to preserve Lao culture and tradition, despite (a growing) multicultural population, ongoing development projects and influences from greater access to technology.

It has been a hectic time on the Lao social calander of late... As Buddists, most Lao people do not partake in Christmas festivities; however, there certainly seemed to be even more Lao dancing and singing and Beer Lao and Johnny Walker Red flowing than usual during this time. New Year had many locals out and about to celebrate, though they let loose at their own version ( Lao New Year) in April. November through to February is an auspicious and practical (dry season) time for wedding ceremonies.Though an official midnight curfew is in place in Vientiane, private parties often continue into the early hours and there are a couple of options in town for 'another one for the road'...Lane Xang Hotel is close to Nam Phu on Fa Ngoum Road and on the same road, but further out is the huge uninspiring Don Chang Palace, complete with disco.

The strong Lao culture dictates politeness and respect. These qualities are indoctrinated by the family and the arrangement of villages within the city. Each village has a head person who makes decisions for and oversees that community. They approve living arrangements and most other matters that concern the residents and are responsible for implementing health and safety strategies. The government rewards villages which provide and maintain clean and healthy conditions and encourage education and development programs.

The French influence of the past is still in evidence; it can be seen in the old style French buildings, French street signs and by the availability of French wine and cuisine. Many older Lao people speak French fluently and the French government invest money towards language schools and projects to keep the language alive here. However, with an ever increasing community of expats from all over the world and the developing tourism industry, the push is towards learning English. Language schools are big business here as students want to secure greater work opportunities.

Vientiane restaurants represent the diversity of the people living here. Excellent French, Italian, Indian, Chinese,Thai, Japanese and International restaurants abound. Delicious, healthy, fresh Lao food is a cheap and delightful option. Dinner from a street vendor can be about $US1 and you'll pay about $US9 in a fancy restaurant for a New Zealand steak.

Luang Prabang cuisine

Some famous dishes from the Isan region of North East Thailand originated in Laos. The staple dishes of larb, grilled chicken, papaya salad and sticky rice are found all over the country. Luang Prabang is a fantastic place to experience Laos cuisine.

A massive variety of larb (spicy, minced meat salad) can be found all over town. The most common meats include pork, duck and chicken, and their respective livers are also generally included. There is a constant aroma of barbequed meats in every street. The highlights are the half butterflied chickens, any part of the buffalo, and a dazzling array of semi dried sausages, which can be seen drying in the street over the footpaths.

An original Luang Prabang dish is Aw Lam. It is best described as a hearty broth, full of meat, a variety of mushrooms, eggplant and a large amount of herbs. Everything is eaten with sticky rice, rolling little balls in the palm of your hand and then dipping into your meal.

Some great beer snacks include dried and fried buffalo, some quite sticky sweet and others like jerky, and dried river weed that is fried with sesame seeds and served with a great chilli nam prik.