Sunday, May 3, 2009

Cambodian Markets - Suprisingly Clean!

The food markets had all the typical fruits, vegetables and river weeds. The butchery section held the usual pork, beef, chicken and fish sections. Standard cuts and inners open to the air, displayed on tables with the flies buzzing around. Personally I was impressed by the cleanliness. The fish and seafood was the most surprising, if the fish were not sold alive they were packed on ice (in Phnom Phen). We didn’t experience a small village market where I’m sure the conditions would not be quite as savoury.

The spice section of the markets was very small in relation to neighbouring Thailand and Vietnam (even Laos). The shrimp paste and fermented fish piles are mountain high and stench as strong.


There are some good snacks available, the baguettes are filled with papaya salad, chilli, cheese and a meat substance (Cambodian pate). I large baguette, more than enough to fill an empty belly for $1US.

Bundles of sticky rice sticks (packed into bamboo, sugar cane or corn husks), sticky rice cakes and sweet bread items are available for 1000 riel (about 25 US cents).

Fresh fruit drink stands and sugar cane stands (sugar cane is piled high in the streets) are seen scattered around, 1000 riel an cup.

Monday, March 2, 2009

Crossing the Cambodian Border

From Bangkok’s main station take the 5.50am train to Aranyaprathet, third class only. The seats are hard and it can get pretty crowded but the windows open and you can watch rural areas of Thailand go by with the wind in your hair. The rice paddies are a beautiful distraction over the 6hr trip.
The trip costs 47 baht.

From the train station at Aranyaprathet take a tuk-tuk to the border for 80 baht. Without fail the tuk-tuk driver will take you to a tout to get your Cambodian visa (THIS IS NOT THE BORDER, YOU DO NOT HAVE TO FILL OUT ANY FORMS OR PAY ANY MONEY). This is the first scam along the way! Get back in your tuk-tuk and go to the border. At the border walk through Thai immigration, once through keep walking for about 150 meters to the Cambodian immigration. The route is a little confusing past big casino’s with people approaching you wanting to guide you, offering you taxi services and visa services. IGNORE THEM AND KEEP WALKING. (more scams)

You can get a Cambodian visa at the border it costs $20 US, do not pay any more. If you have a chance get your visa in Bangkok before heading to Cambodia, it will make the crossing a little easier for you.

Once through immigration you enter the town of Poipet. A typical border town, here you will be approached by people wanting to take you to a taxi. A shared taxi to Siem Riep cost $60 US (4 people can share this).

On the way to Siem Riep (about 3 hours) the taxi will make a toilet stop. Everybody is on commission and yes water does cost $1 US.

Monday, February 23, 2009

Ordering the Right Balance


While there are similarities, Cambodian cuisine should be taken in its own right. Khmer recipes go back to the days before the introduction of the chilli, so are consequently much milder than most Asian food.The best of Khmer food is about balancing your meal as a whole. Where single Thai dishes might attempt to balance spicy, sour, sweet and salty in a single bowl, Khmer food goes about achieving the same balance through multiple dishes usually a sour soup, a curry, a fried fish, steamed rice.

Ingredients

Spices
Prior to the 16th century, the chilli was relatively unknown in Asia until the arrival of the Portuguese. It was many years before chilli was introduced to Cambodia. Tamarind, is a common ingredient in sour dishes such as soups. Star anise is a must when caramelizing meats in palm sugar like pork in the dish known as pak lov. Turmeric, galangal, ginger, lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves are essential spices in Khmer cooking, such as stews and curries.
From India, by way of Java, Cambodians have been taught the art of blending spice paste using many ingredients like cardamom, star anise, cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger and turmeric. Other native ingredients like lemongrass, galangal, garlic, shallots, coriander, and kaffir lime leaves are added to these spices to make a distinctive and complex spice blend called "kroeung." This is an important aromatic paste commonly used in Cambodian cooking. and stews.

Vegetables
Many vegetables used in Khmer cuisine are also used in Chinese cuisine. Vegetables such as winter melon, bitter melon, luffa, and yardlong beans are found in soups. Oriental squash can be stewed, stir fried or sweetened and steamed with coconut milk as a dessert. Vegetables like mushrooms, cabbage, baby corn, bamboo shoots, fresh ginger, Chinese broccoli, snow peas, and bok choy are commonly used in stir fry dishes .

Fruits
Fruits in Cambodia are very popular! The durian is considered the King, the mangosteen the queen, sapodilla the prince and the "milk fruit" (phlai teuk doh ko) the princess. Other popular fruits include: the jan fruit, kuy fruit, romduol, pineapple, star apple, rose apple, coconut, palmyra fruit, jackfruit, papaya, watermelon, banana, mango and rambutans. Although fruits are usually considered desserts, some fruits such as ripe mangoes, watermelon, and pineapples are eaten commonly with heavily salted fish with plain rice.

Meats
Fish is the most common form of meat in Khmer cuisine. Dried salted fish known as trei ngeat (???) are a favourite with plain rice porridge. The popular Khmer dish called amok uses a kind of catfish steamed in a savoury coconut based curry. Pork is used to make sweet Khmer sausages known as twah ko. Beef and chicken are stewed, grilled or stir fried. More unusual meats include frog, turtle, and tarantulas; enjoyed as everyday delights in Cambodia.