Tham Phu Kham, Laos

Hiring a mountain bike for a day or two is extremely rewarding. You ride through small villages, rice fields, over or through streams on your way to gigantic caves and amazing swimming lagoons. The colour of water at the lagoon which is at the base of Phu Kham cave is mind blowing. The minerally blue mountain water is cool and crisp, very relaxing after an hour or two in the saddle.

If all this exercise is just too much, you can flop in a floating bamboo hut on the Nam Xong river all day long. For a few bucks you can have a fresh chicken baguette or fried noodles washed down with an icy Beer Lao. Not much else to do besides gawk at the mountains and take a dip in the clear water.

The dining scene in Vang Vieng is rather dissapointing, however, the highlight is the Suanmone Phoudindeang Organic Farm, which is a 3km ride north of town. They also have a cafe in the town itself, but the original on the farm alongside the river is the better choice. The food here is fab and a real surprise find was the seasonal, pan fried goats cheese served with baguette and salad (aus$2 ), from the farm's own goats.

For a hard earned thirst, Beer Lao

The imaginately named "Beer Lao" is a super drop. At around aus$1 for a tallie, it's not surprising to see it being drunk at anytime of the day. The malt is from France, the hops and yeast from Germany and the rice from Laos. To pass a day in Laos without at least one beer is frowned upon, quite rude actually. Everybody drinks it, I have even seen kids in school uniform knocking back a few by the Mekong after a hard day in the classroom. Probably just as well Alanna didn't go to school here! With most of the towns in Laos perched on riverbanks, sunset is a special time of day, with makeshift bars selling a plethora of beer to celebrate another stress free day. Some of the beer snacks include dried or cured, then fried strips of buffalo. Doesn't get much better. Aaahhh!

Lams Astray

Unfortunately, you can only travel on the Aussie dollar for so long. After 5 months of indulgence, it's time to cash up, for 2 Lams anyway!

The beauty of travel is that you never really know where you can end up. One day, your sipping beer by the Mekong, the next, your working in a kitchen in a remote part of the south island of New Zealand! This is where Alanna has found herself. She has taken a 5 month job as the Sous Chef at the Wilderness Lodge in Lake Moeraki. Her main reason for doing this is so she can get her arse back to the Mekong to drink more beer. A pristine environment, great local produce and some fabulous wines should amount to some excellent LAM stories. We look forward to hearing all about it.

Megan has been on the hunt for a job teaching english; it's no surprise she has found one in Vientiane. The capital of Laos is filled with awesome restaurants, coffee shops, pubs and super friendly locals. To call Vientiane a capital city is a bit of a contradiction in terms. The sidewalks are ever so slowly being paved and no one is in a hurry to do too much. The "city", which nestles alongside the Mekong river, moves at a slower pace than the current of the river itself. Megan's students are mainly teenagers and adults, and her time here will give her a great insight into the locals and the culture of Vientiane. She is living in a gorgeous apartment behind the "Just For Fun" cafe, an institution here, where Megan will no doubt find herself sipping coffee for many hours.

All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy. So Jack, aka Luke, has decided to not get involved with the dirty "W" word. Instead , I'm up for 6 weeks of travel throughout Laos. How do you like them apples. See ya!

Groovy Markets

The beautiful French colonial town of Luang Prabang is full of charm. It's many markets are full of amazing handmade crafts and smiling faces.

The night market in Luang Prabang is on Thanon Phothisalat, and sets up everyday at around 4pm. It is extremely vibrant and stretches for about 200 metres. You can find hand woven silk products, bags, lanterns, antiques, shoes and jewellery. There are 2 laneways which run off the main street with loads of food. One laneway is full of vegetarian food, whilst the other contains a huge selection of all things bbq. Whole fish, lemongrass skewered chicken, buffalo sausages, pork sausages and a few salads and vegetable dishes. Both alleys have communal tables which make for a friendly affair, with a good mix of people sharing their morsels. One could have a "Beer Lao", if one was that way inclined.

One block towards the river is home to a morning market which kicks off around 6am. And yes, I did manage to crawl out of bed one morning to see it. You can buy all kinds of green vegies and herbs, a variety of potatoes and yams, dried goods, gorgeous mushrooms, fish, fresh and bbq meats and some curious looking "deceased" wildlife, which were not allowed to have their photo taken.

Breakfast Baguettes

For breakfast in Laos, it's really hard to go past the baguettes and local, thick, sweet brewed coffee.

The freshly baked baguettes can be found in the street everywhere and the fillings are as varied as the many stalls. The choice is yours, cream cheese, salad, pate (a kind of lucky dip "meatloaf", where it's probably better not to ask what's in it), crispy fried fish, dried buffalo strips, bbq chicken, pork sausages, pork floss, mayo and sweet chilli sauce.

Prices vary from $1aus to $2, depending on how much they can actually fit in these things. Sounds more like an after pub or club feed than breakfast, but is a welcome change from noodle soup!

Another remnant from the French era are the many Patisseries found around Vientiane. You can indulge in croissants, danish pastries, pain au chocolat and tart au citron. It is quite surreal to be sitting on the pavement tucking into a pain au chocolat and a thick brewed coffee in the middle of SE Asia. Bon appetit!

16 hrs on the bench

Well, what a bonding experience it was - 16 hrs perched on a narrow wooden bench, travelling from Trang to Bangkok on the rattler..

We were lucky that we weren't allocated seats together; at least with people of Asian build in between , we had a chance of keeping half a bum cheek on the seat!

Of course we sought some relief from the hard seat and the monotony, by getting up to move around. Luke spent a lot of the journey in the alcove between the train carriages - before this area became prime sleeping space. The aisles were also full of bodies stretched out on sheets of newspaper. The hawkers somehow managed to keep up their activities, in an endless parade through the train: cigarettes, newspapers, beer, tea, coffee, cold drinks...an array of food from dried squid snacks to rice and pork meals. Even Thai ice cream made an appearance.

We brought along a bottle of Thai whiskey to ease the pain, but it 's success was limited. Our location was certainly convenient - right outside the toilet facilities ( with no water to flush ). Ah, the stale stentch of urine grew to a nostril burning climax by the early hours of the morning. We were pretty drained and disorientated when we finally hit the blanket of pollution in Bangkok.

Catching up with Tui - and 'Super Harry'

Due to the ongoing hospitality of Tui, who we met several weeks ago in Trang, we were introduced to Harry ( the local radio announcer ) and his lovely wife Yieow. They invested much time and energy in showing us the sights of Trang and surrounds. We enjoyed their company immensely, as they share a fun loving and generous spirit

Often we had no clear idea of where we were off to, but would pile into the back of Harry's 4WD, along with friends, relatives and/or locals hitching a ride from off the street. We were taken out to one of the local waterfalls for a dip and to varied locations for a feed. We enjoyed meals at the Chinese temple, local shopping centre and at places well off the beaten track, including a restaurant a couple of hours drive from town, overlooking the ocean.

We gained another perspective on the Vegetarian Festival (see LAM Bits, 3 Pigs) when we arrived at a beautiful temple, set in a landscape of limestone cliffs and jungle, outside of Trang. The extended family we were with, gave donations of rice and other useful cooking ingredients to the temple. Then we discovered that Tui's girlfriend Seow was to stay out there for the duration of the festival, along with many other women from town. These women spend the days fasting, praying and avoiding the temptations prohibited under the rites of the festival. Some also choose to have their hair shaved off - as Seow did. Afterwards, the boys dubbed her ' Demi Moore'.

The main building is surrounded by 3 large caves and Tui and Harry guided us through each of them. The caves are actually places of worship, with beautiful gold Buddhas and images of other gods throughout. A large 'canteen' and prayer hall are housed within the cave structures.

After an eventful time in Trang, we were treated to a send off at the train station, as we primed up for a 16 hr, 3rd class trip to Bangkok ( another story!). We were provided with snacks for the journey - enough to last for a good week after. We're looking forward to a visit to Trang next year - there's rumoured to be a wedding on the cards!

Coldest Beer in SE Asia

Ditch the ice cubes usually required to cool your luke warm beer in Thailand - welcome to icy beer slushies!

About 50 metres NW of the clocktower in Trang ( on Th. Visetkul ), in a square off the main footpath, opposite what has to be the largest portrait of the King in Trang, is a cluster of food stalls. The one with its ' kitchen' virtually on the footpath, has something special inside...

It seats about 25 people at a time and would do double that in take-aways. We frequented enough, that the main attraction - the beer fridge - became self service for us. It is set so cold that the beer would pour semi - frozen from the bottle. At 40 baht (AUD$1.30), a tallie, naturally, we were regulars.

One evening, the young chef working there decided he was up for a session with us. All was going well until he decided we should skull the drinks. To be fair, he'd already helped himself to a few during service and is prettly lean. He chose to down his beer through a straw. After spilling a few bottles, then smashing a couple more, he got up, did the swagger and then head butted the gutter. Game over. As one of the other chefs was still cleaning down, the young guy was sat in a chair and hosed down. He had split his ear open and grazed his shoulder and arm. We thought it was time to head off. We returned the next day, to find that he was a no show and in the bad books with his old man, the owner!

The Art of Imitation

We were kept guessing sometimes; though many dishes looked like real meat, it was just clever imitation. The Vegetarian Festival in Trang is a bounty of wonder.

Throughout Trang, in numerous restaurants, stalls and at tents set up in the grounds of temples, there was a remarkable array of vegetarian fare on offer, as part of the Vegetarian Festival. Yellow flags fluttered in the streets to highlight the location of these places and they did a roaring trade during the 9 days of celebrations.

A large percentage of the dishes were made to look exactly like meat. Tofu, tempeh, rice, yam and potato were used in amazingly creative ways to imitate the meat that is disallowed for the followers of the festival rituals. There was imitation bbq pork, roast duck and even what appeared to be whole fish.

The temples provided free food all day for anyone who turned up, foreigners included. Many locals bring donations of food to these temples as a way of contributing to the cost and to gain merit.

Under the Influence

There's no programme available for Trang's Vegetarian Festival. The locals often gave us conflicting information regarding where and when - but they all assured us we wouldn't miss the most outrageous displays by those under the influence of the gods. As it turned out, we managed to score some amazing footage of believers going into a trance and the crazy antics that followed.

We kept busy visiting each Chinese temple and watching for the crowds, that became a sea of white clad figures ( see LAM Forum ), when major events were about to take place. During the first days of the Vegetarian Festival, a lantern pole was erected to invoke the gods, a parade of virgins was held and people started to participate in paying homage to various gods.

Anticipation grew one morning as we watched open backed trucks, full of men in strange clothing - such as bright red and gold cut out vests, some with whips - being driven out of the temple. As the trucks passed, people along the road bent down, as if to show respect. The next night, during more celebrations, we noticed some young men sporting fresh, deep cuts to each side of their mouth.

When events moved to the large temple close to the centre of town one night, the atmosphere was highly charged. Heavy, repetitive drum beats would gradually build and the effect on the crowd was quite intense. As this continued, individuals would suddenly start shaking all over, jump, sway and dance in a frenzy. Sometimes their eyes rolled back. A desk , covered in scrolls, was set up next to the drums and each affected person would slam their palms on the table, shaking. Attendants would help them into colourful garments, to depict a particular god. This continued, also extending to some women, who are believed to become possessed by child gods. They are dressed in bright, oversized child outfits, their hair in pigtails. This was facinating to watch, it didn't matter if we believed in the possession by gods, or not; clearly these people did and that made it real.

More activites followed, culminating in an amazing Chinese dragon dance ( the longest dragon we've ever seen ), then a massive firework display. When these festivities were over, we watched what appeared to be a 'de-possession' ritual. Once again, the possessed put their palms down on the desk and prayed or chanted. Suddenly, they would jump violently back and yell, like they'd received a jolt of electricity. They changed out of the custume and appeared to be in a heavy 'come down' state.

Freaky Market

We witnessed amazing sights of pain and religious fervour during the parades through town for the Vegetarian festival.

The most gruesome shows during the Vegetarian Festival, were held at the big, central Chinese temple, in broad daylight. The mediums of the gods, once again went into a trance, to become possessed. The drums beat loudly, and a procession of people carrying flags and minature shrines, waited patiently. A couple of local guys, overseeing the events, shuffled us through the crowds to see the devottees being skewered through the face with metal rods. They were dressed in the 'outfits of gods', often shaking, some with eyes rolling back. Attendants dowsed their wounds with water; there wasn't a lot of blood, amazingly, but of course, horrific scenes nonetheless.

In sweltering heat, in the middle of the day, these people with pierced faces ( and necks ), started off to march through town, an event that took many hours. During the parade, the 'gods' visited tables of offerings set up outside shop fronts along the way to give their blessings. Some of these offerings ( eg. fruit ), ended up attached to the face piercings, kebab style.

This activity continued for days, with participants upping the ante, by getting creative with the objects used to puncture their faces with: umbrellas, whipper - snipper, chairs, flags, chains, bicycles, branches, power drill, fishing rods...

The blood flowed freely from a man continually slicing his tongue with a blade imbedded in a bamboo casing, another man was hitting a blade into his chest with a blunt instrument.

Locals lined the streets to witness the bizarre scenes. As the parade approached, an eerie, quiet would fall. The main players often looked exhausted, some clearly in pain, despite their 'god' status. They were soaked in perspiration and from water being poured over them - the only form of relief provided. A couple of women had a rod through their face, but mostly it was the men, some very young, with a face full. After the parade and entourage moved on, huge poles, wrapped in fireworks were let off; the noise shocking after the silence before.

The Chinese Vegetarian Festival

It's believed this festival originated in Phuket, Thailand, where it continues to be practiced each year. It made its mark during a time about 150-180 years ago when inhabitants of the island suffered an outbreak of what is thought to have been malaria. Members of a visiting opera company from China also fell ill; they had neglected to pay homage to the 9 emperor gods that month...

The Chinese visitors immediately set about appeasing the gods by performing sacred rituals and following a vegetarian diet for a month. The people recovered and there were enough converts to ensure this has become a yearly event. It is thought that by participating in this practice of pacifying the gods and abstaining from stimulants, then good health, good luck and peace of mind can be achieved. The ritual of some devottees ( called 'Ma Song' ), of becoming possessed by the gods, showcases extreme displays of self mortification. Because they are possessed by gods, they are believed to be immortal and to prove the strength of their belief, 'Ma Song' walk over hot coals, go up 'ladders' made of blades and pierce their bodies with a ( seemingly unlimited ) range of instruments. Our mate Tui ( see friends of LAM ) regaled us with a story about a 'Ma Song' that got carried away one year; instead of limiting himself to facial wounds, he pretty much committed ' hari kiri '. Supposedly, he did hold up longer than expected, but did eventually die.

In the hands of the gods

What a time we had on our return visit to Trang...some images have been impressed on us that won't ever be erased. A 'Vegetarian Festival', generally arouses thoughts of health and well being, rather than self mutilation, but it was extreme examples of the latter that surrounded us in Trang during this event.

The Vegetarian Festival takes place annually, during 9 days in September / October ( the date is determined by the lunar calander ). It centres around 2 Chinese temples in Trang, where people gather day and night, dressed all in white, to display their abstention from consuming meat and alcohol, having sex, telling lies and killing. Menstruating or pregnant women, or those in mourning, cannot attend.

It is a hive of activity, with make-shift restaurants providing free vegetarian fare ( see LAM Bits ); hawkers selling noisy dragon toys, virgin parades, Chinese dragon dances and riviting displays by those under the influence of the gods - all set to a deafening soundtrack of constant firecrackers and drum beats ( the noise is believed to drive away evil spirits ). (See 3 Little Pigs to Market ).

Cocktail hour

A trip to the boat harbour sets you among yachts/boats from all around the world. A perfect place to lose yourself with a cocktail.

A trip up the eastern side of phuket island will take you past the boat harbour. Stop into 'Watermark' a pleasant place to sit and enjoy a refreshing cocktail. Rumour has it, the best on Phuket.

We settled in for some classic cocktails with a Thai spin.

Capriosca: 2 shots vodka

3 limes (cut in wedges)

1 tsp palm sugar (however much you'd like)

Add lime wedges and and sugar into cocktail shaker (or glass), crush with pestle until lime juice has released.

Add vodka and crushed ice, mix well and serve.

The Watermark version was very generous on the lime and vodka!

Moscow Mule: 50ml vodka

70ml lime juice

4 lime wedges

1 knob fresh ginger

200ml soda water

sprig of mint

Crush ginger with pestle to break down and release juice. Slightly press mint (stem included).

Mix in a highball glass with ice.

The fresh ginger adds a tangey savoury dimension, making it not as sugary as alot of mules.

"Nuts Anybody, nuts?"

Original, Thai style beer nuts...a tasty treat.

The Thai version of beer nuts incorporates typical Thai flavours:

Roasted peanuts are mixed with a small amount of salt, sugar, chilli, fried kaffir lime (finely sliced), and crisp garlic. Gets the taste buds tingling and the mouth watering!

Green Mango Salad Recipe

The tangy lime dressing was brilliantly mellowed by the creamy, earthiness of roasted cashews. A pleasant surprise, was how well crispy, dehydrated shrimp crunched in the mouth, adding texture and flavour.

Green Mango Salad:

Ingredients: 1 1/2 cups shredded green mango

2 chopped chillis

1 tblsp dried shrimp - fried until crispy

1/4 cup roasted, unsalted cashews

2 shallots, finely sliced

1 spring onion, finely sliced

1 kaffir lime, finely sliced

3 celery leaves, roughly torn

Dressing:

30mls lime juice

15mls fish sauce

palm sugar; a good pinch

Method: Combine dressing ingredients and disolve sugar. Mix other ingredients, coat well with dressing.

'Poortong' Restaurant, Phuket.

It is pronounced 'Poortong', but the sign is in Thai script only; on Phuket Rd. Look for the kitchen set up on the footpath and fluorescent lit seating inside. The friendly staff (see LAM Friends), shared a couple of recipes with us..

'Poortong' restaurant serves a good range of authentic Thai food (menu in English and Thai). Check out our acquired recipes for green mango salad (LAM Bits) and steamed clams. If you like it hot, 'Muh Parng'; fried pork in red curry sauce, with beans, chilli, lime leaf, green pepper and tumeric, is a delicious option. It gets all the diners coughing because of the chilli released in the air during cooking.

Steamed Clams:

Ingredients: 220grms fresh clams / mussels

2 tblsp chilli jam (your favourite brand)

4 or 5 kaffir lime leaves

fish sauce; a squirt

basil; to garnish

Method: Throw clams / mussels into a hot wok or pan, add a splash of water. Cover and leave to steam gently, until shells begin to open. Add chilli jam, fish sauce and lime leaves; mix through and simmer for 2 - 3 mins (add more water if required to allow for saucy consistancy). Tear basil and fold through to finish.

Smiles at Poortong Restaurant

Check out the happy staff at Poortong Restaurant, Phuket town. Long hours at work don't seem to dull the spirit here; we always received a warm welcome and big smiles. Combined with sumptuous Thai cuisine, no wonder we kept going back for more!

Along with the super friendly service at 'Poortong', we were often treated to tastes of speciality dishes - including staff meals, which invariably contained an amazing amount of chilli. We were also shown local produce that the cooks thought we may not be familiar with, such as jungle bean. The big chicka let us know that she wants a cooking job in Australia.(see LAM Bits).

Pengman Hotel / Noodle Shop

The Pengman Hotel is attached to the back of a noodle shop in central Phuket town. At 120 Baht (AUD$4) a room, it definitely rates a mention in Cattle Class...

Pengman Hotel (Phang-Nga Rd. Phuket town): It's reasonable accommodation (if you can deal with living in a box-like room with a fan) and it's 'convenience plus', with a handy location and a decent feed available downstairs ( the noodles are pretty good and the satay very tasty). The owner of the 'Pengman' has' excessive compulsive' disorder when it comes to cleaning the communal bathrooms, which is a relief, considering the favoured spot for drying the chillis out...

Phuket town

Phuket town is a pleasant surprise; it has an authentic Thai atmosphere with Chinese influence. Though the beach hubs on the island (such as Patong), are an example of the generic tourist beat, the town itself has retained it's heritage.

The backstreets of Phuket have much to offer; narrow streets with Chinese lanterns, old style coffee shops, noodle bars, street stalls and fantastic shopping for textile lovers (fabrics are sourced from all over Asia). It is satisfying to wander and make your own discoveries, especially in regard to food, as the cheap eat options are many and varied (see LAM Bits).

To our eyes, no physical effects of the tsunami were evident. The reminder of the tragedy lies in the many 'evacuation route' signs that have been erected and of course, the emotional recovery continues for the people. We didn't raise the topic with the locals we met casually, but on a couple of occasions, they reflected on their experience.

Trang Festival, October 21-30, 2006

The webdesigner visits team L-A-M

Here's the man behind the L-A-M website. It was great to spend time with Warren and Deirdre on Ko Samui, there's plenty of nightlife in those back alleys.

L-A-M would like to introduce the man behind the creation and design of our website. Warren O'Hara runs his webdesigner business in Caulfield, Melbourne. Most people are aware of Megan and Alanna's lack of computer knowledge, mine even less so. Warren has designed a very basic program for us to follow whilst we update our experiences, as well as the stunning graphics you see. We are very grateful for his and his teams ongoing support.

It was fantastic to catch up with Warren and Deirdre in Ko Samui. It was a definite change of scenery for us to spend the afternoon catching up at their resort bar by the pool in the "expensive" seats. We nearly didn't get in due to our "rustic" experience, as the concierge gave us the once over, he new full well we were used to spending about $4 a night to sleep in our concrete dens.

So when the sun slipped behind the horizon, we dragged the guys into the neon lit night of Chaweng Beach. After a "few" various vodka concoctions, we made our way into the back alleys of Chaweng to a dance floor that required the usual "disco inferno" impersonations. I think this was the straw that broke the camels back so to speak, as Warren and Deirdre bade us farewell.

So for those of you interested in joining us (you know who you are), we are more than happy to take a break from our hectic, stressful lifestyle and kick back for a few days. See ya soon.

Sensational Snaggers in Nakhon Si Thammarat

In the southern city of Nakhon Si Thammarat, there is a vibrant street culture filled with amazing aromas.

In , Thanon Jamroenwithi, there is an array of food stalls running all day and night. A leisurely walk from one end to the other will produce anything from deep fried jackfruit, khanom jiin, fried chicken, fruit stalls, coffee/tea stands, noodles galore, stuffed pancakes, chicken biryani, hor mok(steamed curried fish cakes wrapped in banana leaves) and a sensational snagger stall. We felt like we were home having a barbie, chowing down a wild selection of spicy sausages served with sweet chilli sauce, scud chillies, cucumber, raw cabbage, snake beans, all washed down with a "couple" of icy cold lagers.

At around 2.30pm a motorbike with a side car rocks up with about 15 different curries and braises. By the time we leave behind the snags, womble to the end of the street and back, it's time to knock off a plate of rice with a brilliant penang pork curry with loads of thai basil that will set you back a whole dollar.

Buckets Up

Any coastal location in Thailand is well stocked with small plastic buckets, not for building sand castles, but for filling with a special beverage.

This unique beverage sells for 150-300 baht ( $5-$10 AUS) depending on the spirit. A traditional bucket involves : ice, hip flask of sangsom whisky, coke/ redbull and always a handful of straws (variations of spirits available). Have by yourself or share with friends, a great conversational, communal drink. Word to the wise: caution to those who don't share !

Produce market, Nakhon Si Thammarat

The fresh produce at this market matches the high standard and vibrancy as elsewhere in Thailand. Here, however we found the locals encouraging us to sample some of the more interesting items.

Perhaps for their entertainment or perhaps ours, we were handed things such as : cured fish, sour unidentified vegetables, pliable spun sugar waifer and chewie sesame doughnuts.

We saw an unusual crustation, 'mantis prawn' (which apparently they deep fry) and live catfish were clubbed to death to order. The amazing variety and quality of mushrooms stood out amongst the vegetables ; fresh woodear, oyster and straw. There were a large amount of fresh curry pastes; red, green, yellow, sour orange, panang and mussaman on display, surrounded by mounds of shrimp paste. The whole experience was eye opening and nasal flaring!

Festival of the Tenth Lunar Month

This festival is a big event in southern Thailand and represents the Buddist tradition of honouring the dead during 15 days in September. We observed how the people of Nakhon Si Thammarat appeased the spirits with offerings of food; the living get to indulge in delicious specialities as well!

The historic city ( and rumoured Thai-Mafia hub ) of Nakhon Si Thammarat, in the southern province of the same name, offers a great opportunity for watching the celebration of the Tenth Lunar Month. As Nakhon is not particually touristy, the people were excited to include outsiders in the events. Buddists believe the dead have sins and are sent to Hell as Demons. During the Festival, the Demons come to visit their relatives who provide offerings of food, to make peace and gain merit. We enjoyed sampling speciality foods, which were beautifully presented at the stalls in the grounds of Wat Phra Mahathat, where much of the action was taking place.

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Ruen Mai's Nam Prik

"Ruen Mai" (Maharaj Rd, Krabi); the setting is tranquil with water features and manicured lush tropical garden. It is a popular local eating haunt and after trying the food, we can understand why.

The beautiful presentation and outstanding quality of the food at Ruen Mai, inspired us to take a look behind the scenes. The kitchen was large and airy, with stainless steel benches. It was clean and well maintained, despite a couple of cats to dodge underfoot. The working sections of the kitchen were split into 5 sections : wok, deep fry, curries, salads and one girl responsible for making nam prik. The working atmosphere was relaxed yet productive.

Nam Prik is an important part of a Thai diet ; basically it is a chilli dip consisting of palm sugar, fish seasoning, garlic and lime juice. Variations include adding shellfish or beetle. Always accompanied by raw vegetables and fresh herbs which may include; beetle leaf, seaweed and thai eggplant ( amongst others ). Good as a starter or a healthy snack.

NAM PRIK KUNG SOD

In a mortor pound ; 5 birdseye chilli, 2 tsp shrimp paste; make to a smooth paste consistancy.

Add: half tbsp palm sugar, 15ml lime juice. mix until palm sugar is dissolved.

Add: 2 tbsp poached shrimp (baby prawn), 1 finely chopped shallot. crush and mix lighty with pestle.

Serve with beetle leaf, snake beans, coriander , thai eggplant or omelette.

Ruen Mai Restaurant

'Ruen Mai' restaurant (Maharaj Rd, Krabi) came highly recommended for an authentic dining experience. From an extensive menu covering the complete repertoire of Thai cuisine our selections included;

"Yam Tua Pu" (wing bean salad).

Blanched wing beans, chilli, kaffir lime leaf, pomello and cooked prawns were tossed thru a dressing of lime juice, fish sauce, shrimp paste and sugar.

Finished with toasted coconut, shallot , flossy prawn and served with roasted cashew nuts and a boiled egg for balance.

80 Baht ; $2.85 AUD.

"Yam Makeur Poa" (roasted eggplant and coconut milk salad).

The flesh of charred eggplant (skin removed), was poached in coconut milk, garlic, chilli, fish sauce and sugar. The poached eggplant and sauce was then tossed with shallot, coriander, mint, chilli and crispy shallot.

Served with a boiled egg and fresh cucumber.

80 Baht ; $2.85 AUD.

"Kaeng Prik Neva" (ball tearing beef curry).

" Possibly the hottest curry we have ever had!"

Thin slices of beef were fried in red curry paste with palm sugar, fish sauce and kaffir lime leaf. Fresh bunches of whole green pepper corns, red birdseye chilli and long green and red chillies added.

This dry curry had a small pool of juice at the bottom of the dish. Every mouthful was searingly hot, but very addictive. Boy didn't we pay for it the day after!

90 Baht ; $3.20 AUD.

We enjoyed the food so much we returned the following day to take a look around the kitchen and try a few more dishes. Another stand out was:

"Gaeng Som Pla" ( Sour orange fish curry).

A gaeng som doesn't use coconut cream and is based on tamarind. It seems almost 'unmasked' and quite sharp, fragrant and hot. On this particular occasion there were large pieces of snapper, lemongrass, tomato, kaffir lime leaf, chilli and a local flower; Sesban, which had a stumpy green stem and a white and orange tinged bulb.

90 Baht ; $3.20 AUD

Yamaha 110s

To get around town, look for the guys in vests, hanging at the street corners, by the line - up of Yamaha 110s.

It is cheap, efficient and convenient for getting from A to B; the ' taxi '-motorbike. There is a risk, as no helmets are provided, but these certainly aren't speed machines. We caught a lift a couple of times, 3 to a bike is considered ok- the locals can pack on their whole family.

Sawat dii kha!

Coming into the fourth month of our food journey ( after 3 months in Malaysia ); we are excited to enter the land of spicy, aromatic curries and endless choices of mouth watering flavours and textures. Welcome to Thailand! ( We arrived via minibus from Penang, into Hat Yai RM22- AUD$7 ).

As I write this, I am indulging in a marvellous Penang curry ( 30 baht, AUD$1 ); my mouth is briming with spicy, rich coconut and lime leaf flavours.

Most people have experienced Thai food outside of Thailand, but there is nothing like eating in the land itself. Maybe it is the freshness of the ingredients, maybe the smiles from the locals, or the stream of colourful people and activity as you sit at the roadside rickety tables ( often beside a rubbish bin or drain ), with an enticing plate of mouth teasing, sense stirring local cuisine. Or it could be the aromas of the frying chilli and garlic wetting your appetite wherever you go, or the sound of the ingredients sizzling as they hit a hot wok...

Our Thai journey begins in the south; we aim to disclose the features of regional Thai food and how it varies throughout the country, depending on factors such as the availability of native produce.

Thailand has a reputation of combining food with celebrations. During our stay, we hope to attend as many as possible, first with the Festival of the Tenth Lunar Month in Nakhon Si Thammarat and then the Chinese Vegetarian Festival in Trang.

No time to wean ourselves into the fiery food; the south serves up the hottest dishes in Thailand. We are head first into the heat - and loving it!

Tui, Tod Mun Pla King

Tui is a fish "maestro" at the Trang evening market who provided great info in marvelous English.

Tui ran a fish cake and whole smoked fish stall. From our first encounter he was full of information about the different food stalls in the market. Oh yeah, his fish cakes were joy as well.

Tui gave us the complete run down of Khanom Jeen ( the fresh rice noodle dish). Whilst we were elbow deep in a bowl, Tui would leave his stall to help us work out what all condiments were and how best to use them.

We look forward to seeing Tui again when we return to Trang in late October for the annual Chinese Vegetarian Festival. He has offered to show us around to a few "out of the way" places. Bring that on!

Beer garden suprise

Beer you say! Order your own 3.3 litre jumbo tube with a tap. Self service was never made so easy, just pour it slow.

Sharing a 'pour your own' supply of beer at the beer garden near LAFIGA night club was a great way to cohearse with locals.

The only move from here was to the night club itself. After three months in a more reserved country, you can imagine our suprise and excitment when we rounded the corner to find wall to wall people,dj's and catwalk holding scantily clad girls rubbing themselves against each other. "The juices were flowing" !!

While letting our hair down the locals where forth coming with communal drinks, (later we figured probablly not a great idea to accept; druggings and all). People were very keen to meet and dance with the only foreigners in the place, they really seemed to get a thrill out of us getting involved in the carry on. In fact we got so carried away we were amongst the last five people to leave, well and truely after the lights came on.

Trang evening market

One place where you know you have entered a new country is at the evening market. Trang's is extremely colourful: aahhh, our first smell and taste of authentic Thailand.

Amongst the usual trashie music, sunglass, thong (flip-flop) and cheap t-shirt stands was an amazing array of food stalls. There was wildly aromatic curries, salads, fried goods, fresh fruits, noodles, desserts and loads of smiles to boot.

One unusual dessert that we stumbled upon, consisted of a wet rice batter ladled onto a cloth steamer. When virtually "set", a filling of caramelized shallot, peanut, palm sugar and fish sauce was placed on one half and then folded over (similar to a tortellini). The tasty morsel was then brushed with a toasted garlic oil and served with cabbage and scud chillies. At the time of eating we all commented on the silkiness of the dumpling which was well balanced by the richness of the filling and the crunchiness of the garlic. Unaware it was a dessert, until a local let us in on the secret, demonstrates how the Thai's complete their meals with something slightly savoury rather than sickly sweet, to keep total balance.

Trang's rice noodle

The supposed origin of a dish typical to southern Thailand : "Khanom Jeen", a fresh thin rice noodle.

"Khanom Jeen" is prepared individually be each store owner. Noodles are handmade by pushing a rice flour and water paste through a sieve into boiling water until they come to the surface (when cooked).

Sauces for this dish comprise of generally four traditional types :

i) not spicy: red colour

ii) spicy with coconut milk: yellow colour

iii)spicy non coconut milk:greenish colour

iv)chicken

Tables are laid out with a variety of condiments(which are a huge part of this dish) to add at will. The condiments include: snakebeans, cucumber, cabbage and assorted herbs, boiled egg and chillies. A range of pickles including shallot, vegetables and shoots, very common is the banana shoot with coconut.

The condiments are the secret as no two people experience the dish the same way.

Reddish - our guide and host in Bario

It was an amazing and rewarding experience getting to know the highlands with Reddish.

Reddish is the welcoming, softly - spoken host of Bariew Backpacker's Lodge in Bario. He encourages guests to make themselves totally at home - in his home. He leaves you to chill out, but if asked, will provide information about the Highland lifestyle and the Kelabit culture and history, as he is a decendant of these people.

Typical of his generous manner, Reddish conscientiously tailor - made a trek for us. After we explained our interest in local cuisine, he came up with a unique means of achieving a ' food tour ' through the remote parts of the highlands, via treking, longboats and 4WD. After 4 days of Reddish guiding us through the jungle and small villages, we discovered his fun - loving, larrikin nature that wasn't apparent initially. He is an extremely skilled guide and aims to provide an amazing experience, while being sensitive to individual needs.

The Bario ' Reebok '

The Bario 'Reebok' is the local's choice of shoe. The rubber shoe has moulded stops on the bottom for ultimate grip in the often muddy terrain ( unfortunately they don't keep leeches out!). We can recommend the shoes, but not the local socks...

On organized jungle treks, the accommodation provided is at traditional longhouses, where you are expected to make yourself at home ( and get to meet some inspiring people ). The obvious feeling of remoteness, is balanced by the warmth of the Kelabit people. A minimum of ten families live within one longhouse and while being accommodated with one family, the others all visit to welcome you and have a chat.

You can choose to do all your trekking on foot. Some of the walks can take anything up to 12 hours to complete, some of this is through extremely muddy, mountainous terrain. We chose to break some of our days up by utilising FWD and boat trips up river. This allowed us to socialise more with the wonderful people in the longhouses.

We stayed at Pa' Mada longhouse for 2 nights and had 1 night at Pa Dalih. We were made to feel like family as the longhouse atmosphere was so friendly and laid back. Each family has a seperate kitchen set -up running off a shared area which runs the length of the longhouse. Across a verandah there are individual sleeping and lounge quarters.

( for more information about the Bario Highlands check out the Borneo Jungle Safari website )

Bariew Backpacker's Lodge, Bario

" You may be our guest for one night, but we pray for your health for one hundred years "

Bariew Backpacker's Lodge is centrally located in the Bario township, close to the few shops, churches, internet and local longhouses. It has a small library, including treking maps, historical and cultural information and books and a local guide can be arranged from here. It is warm and comfortable with various lounge areas and displays interesting crafts and artwork.

Rm55 ( AUD$20 ) per person, includes meals; always local produce, including the internationally renowned Bario rice and sweet pineapple and often wild boar , the meals are substantial and satisfying. Self - serve tea and coffee is available all day and beer can be purchased. Reddish and Ness the owners, supply a pick - up and drop - off service to the airport.

The Kelabit People

The Kelabit people are the original inhabitants of the Bario Highlands area. They have a colourful history and while in some ways their lifestyle still reflects their traditional culture, they have adapted in impressive ways to modern influences.

The strong character and build of the Kelabit people has been shaped by the harsh remoteness of their enviroment. They are productive, independant and proud people, with an amazing ability to adapt to circumstance. They are expert hunters,decorated war heroes ( for their part in fighting alongside the allies against the Japanese ) and to this day, are extremely self sufficent. Despite their lack of modern comforts and facilities ( eg. the town is powered by generators for only a few hours per day ), the Kelabits place high importance on education and keeping up with the outside world. They have organized a website for the area and market the Bario rice over the internet.

The Bario Highlands

Bario is located in a remote valley in the Kelabit Highlands, 1200-1500m above sea level, bordering Indonesia. The only access is via twin otter ( from Miri:FAX airline, Rm 70; AUD$25 ).

Bario is a stunning area, with beautiful vistas of mountain ranges, jungle and rice paddy fields. It has become a hub for the Highlands area, though is really just an airport, a few shopfronts, church, school and homes. All products not made or grown locally, have to be brought in via aeroplane or 4WD and boat. The latter option involves an extremely rough 9 - 10 hour road trip from Miri, on the newly created ( courtesy of a logging company ) unsealed mountain road. Simple longboats are then loaded for travel up river to Bario - a very challenging feat through rapids. It would be a daunting task for most, however the Kelabit people take it in their stride.

Jungle Produce, Bario- Kelabit Highlands

The longhouses we visited in the Kelabit Highlands are set in clearings where fruit, vegetables and rice are grown and areas for the oxen, hunting dogs and chickens are provided. The surrounding jungle is a reliable food source. For meal preparation, fresh greens are accessed and the longhouse hunters are able to kill and butcher an animal ( and return home ) in a matter of an hour. This game meat is killed as required and shared with the longhouse inhabitants. Depending on how it is processed, the meat can be kept for a couple of weeks. Common meat options are wild boar, porcupine and deer.

Maran Umong, our host at Pa' Mada village, is an extremely skilled hunter and jungle survivor. We watched him effortlessly butcher and prepare meat ( on the kitchen floor ), after his nightly jaunts. He seems to have the ability to see in the dark and move silently through the jungle. Luke was honoured to accompany Maran on a hunting trip and after 2 hours he returned with 2kgs of mud, a few leeches, a handful of bull ant bites and one shoe. Maran managed a porcupine ( in between cigarettes ) and came home with a big grin and stories about how white men can't hunt.

Longhouse Cuisine

In the villages where we stayed, there is no refrigeration, so the food has to be ultra fresh. Considering the lack of facilities available, the quality and range of food we were served was amazing.

During our trek through the Highlands, we enjoyed some real taste sensations...

sago worm : eaten raw, it has a slightly nutty, coriander flavour.

wood worm : when raw, the taste is sharp, musty and resin - like.

: roasted wood worm is like pork crackling; fatty, rich and crunchy.

: poached in soup, the raw flavour was intensified.

ginger - flower blossom and shoot : lightly sauteed, it is intensely floral on the palate.

heart of palm : cooked in salted water, creamy and tender texture.

rattan : looks like a stick of bamboo or sugar - cane; stringy texture.

bamboo shoot : crisp,subtle, acidic flavour.

porcupine : slow braised, it is a mixed flavour between oxtail and rabbit, with a gamey essence.

bucking deer : the heart and liver are preferred; usually smoked over open fire. Rich, tender and nutritional.