Opium Trade

“After France annexed Laos in 1893, opium monopolies were established to finance the heavy initial expense of colonial rule. The French imported over 60 tons of opium per year from the middle east.”

Opium poppy cultivation expanded in South East Asia during the 1950’s mostly due to the suppression of Chinese people and a decline in imports from the Middle East due to them becoming increasingly expensive.

Today Thailand is opium free and Laos no longer supplies to the illicit drug market. The Laos government has been trying to eliminate poppy crops for the past 8 years but unfortunately the crops have been wiped out faster than the farmers can find alternative sources of income. Therefore the cultivation continues but on a much smaller scale than in the previous century.
Harvest continues in remote mountainous and poor areas in the northern provinces of Laos.

Addiction usually affects middle age to elderly men, often making them incapable of contributing to the family income and well being. Lao women unfortunately bore the task of working the field, waking early and walking for many hours up steep mountainous terrain to tend the crops. Labor is very physical and trying for these often frail women who then have to return home to opium dependent spouses.

Tham Phu Kham, Laos

Hiring a mountain bike for a day or two is extremely rewarding. You ride through small villages, rice fields, over or through streams on your way to gigantic caves and amazing swimming lagoons. The colour of water at the lagoon which is at the base of Phu Kham cave is mind blowing. The minerally blue mountain water is cool and crisp, very relaxing after an hour or two in the saddle.

If all this exercise is just too much, you can flop in a floating bamboo hut on the Nam Xong river all day long. For a few bucks you can have a fresh chicken baguette or fried noodles washed down with an icy Beer Lao. Not much else to do besides gawk at the mountains and take a dip in the clear water.

The dining scene in Vang Vieng is rather dissapointing, however, the highlight is the Suanmone Phoudindeang Organic Farm, which is a 3km ride north of town. They also have a cafe in the town itself, but the original on the farm alongside the river is the better choice. The food here is fab and a real surprise find was the seasonal, pan fried goats cheese served with baguette and salad (aus$2 ), from the farm's own goats.