Malaysian Borneo

After 7 weeks traveling around peninsula Malaysia, we have arrived in Sarawak, Malaysian Borneo. There is a big celebration on the way as locals gear up to celebrate Merdeka(Independence) Day on the 31 August.

There will be cultural shows, fireworks, air-shows and parades to celebrate Independence Day (Hari Merdeka) in Malaysia on August 31. Next year is bound to be even bigger as it will be 50 years since independence. There is also the upcoming Borneo Cultural Festival. This is taking place in Sibu during September, and will include a Traditional Food Fair.

Fate of hawker stalls

Follow the locals to the best hawker stands! In Malaysia this is a popular eating option that is slowly diminishing as the country develops.

People from all walks of life flock to these outdoor stalls to feast and socialise creating a vibrant, festive atmosphere. The hawker market creates a wonderful contrast to their often very modern surroundings.

Often found outside fancy shopping malls selling the latest high tech gear, on the footpath next to themed upmarket bars, bus stations and vacant lots.

The meat options including offal, chicken, pork, beef and fish, all are safe to eat if turn-over is of a high rate. If the locals are flocking it's a pretty safe bet the produce is fresh and the food will be good.

Chinese bars and Penang Nightlife

We frequented a friendly,cosy Chinese bar in Penang and checked out the clubs for the first time in Malaysia...

The Tai Wah Cafe ( Lubuh Chulia), has great ambiance and good priced beer. It is run by a fun - loving old Chinese couple from their home. The 72 year - old man is happy to jump on his treddley at any hour to go on a beer run.

We checked out the bar strip in Penang and danced off in our thongs (flip - flops), along with the well - heeled Malaysian locals. Good fun, but be prepared to pay RM50 (AUD$18.40) for a round of 3 spirits.

Zamin - a Penang local

Zamin shared with us his opinions about Penang, its culture and food. He is a proud local, and we enjoyed quite a few drinks with him at the Tai Wah cafe, where he can be often be found at about 4pm...

We met Zamin over some beers at the Tai Wah Chinese Cafe in Georgetown. He is a proud Penang local, the youngest of 20 siblings. He was happy to share his knowledge of Malaysia, and Penang in particular, with us. We were able to gain some insight into the Malaysian culture and religion, as Zamin was comfortable discussing issues that might be sensitive to some. He is Muslim, but still indulges in the odd alcoholic beverage, while most Muslims do not drink alcohol as part of their religion; here it comes down to a personal choice, and showing respect for other's beliefs. Penang has a relaxed feel to it and the tolerance and respect each culture shows to others results in a generally harmonious enviroment. Zamin's many dining -out tips were all spot on; each recommendation provided a great experience.

Zamin works at the Bayview Hotel, and was kind enough to introduce us to his executive chef Billy Boudville. Billy is quite a character and was amazingly generous with his time; he spent hours with us discussing Malaysian cuisine and provided a range of dishes for us to try. We enjoyed traditional Penang laksa (with a delicious sweet/sour flavour) and Hokkien Mee ( a very rich prawn broth with Hokkien noodle). It was interesting that Billy voiced concern about the poor training some apprentices receive, and the lack of a strong work ethic some possess in recent times -similar to the problems arising in Australia in the hospitality industry.

local bus from Kota Bharu to cheap accommodation Georgetown

The cheapest transport throughout Malaysia is the local bus, cheap seats work for us; we tried out some dodgy accommodation in Georgetown...

We endured a chain-smoking, 'let's pass on a blind bend 'driver for our trip from Kota Bharu to Penang. The route passes through jungle terrain, and would be quite scenic during the day. RM 28.50 ea.(about AUD$10). The taxi into Georgetown cost RM35 (AUD$12.50).

There are some huge old Chinese Guest -houses in Georgetown for as little as RM22( AUD$8) a room, but without much security- beware of theives. Crystal is a good option at RM40 (AUD14.70) for 3, it includes hot communal showers, t-v, air-con and is very clean and secure.

Joss Sticks, Chinatown. Penang.

The Joss-sticks in Chinatown, Penang, are huge;up to seven foot in length.They add to the amazing atmosphere surrounding the temples in Chinatown, especially during Budda's birthday celebrations.

Penang has an amazing Chinatown, with beautiful, original facades maintained on many of the buildings. The joss shops were doing a roaring trade during the celebrations for Budda's birthday, and there were huge sticks burning outside homes and temples.

Penang satisfies the appetite

Penang provides delightful eating out experiences. Little India and Chinatown are havens of delicious treats, and the Malay options are also plentiful.

LITTLE INDIA: A heady blend of incense, colour and Bollywood music welcome you to 'Little India' in Penang, along with beautiful traditional clothing, food and temples. There are numerous, faultless Indian restaurants, serving roti, dosa, chapati, naan, tandoori, banana-leaf curries and lassi. One of the stand-outs is SMD Food Corner (crn.Lebuh Penang and Lebuh Pesar).

CHINATOWN: Pretty much all of the chicken and rice, noodle and rice porridge stalls in Penang's Chinatown are of a high standard, and great value. For the tastiest, cheapest and most reliable places- follow the locals. It is generally necessary to hover, waiting for a table. The Sky Hotel on Lebuh Chulia, has locals fighting for a seat between 11am and 1pm. They offer succulent roast pork, BBQ pork and roast duck with rice, greens, broth and dipping sauce. Approx RM3.50 (AUD$1.10). Just up the road a few doors is another Chinese joint with yummy yum cha, it winds up about 1.30pm.

MALAY FOOD: Restoron Nasi (Padang), under the International Hotel, 92 Jalan Transfer, crn Jalan Sehala; serves up an array of Malaysian fare of excellent quality. Fish, beef and chicken dishes are available, along with lots of vegetarian options. It is very popular, so best to arrive before 12.30pm. Approx RM5.50 - 7.50 (AUD$2.20), depending on selections.

Behind the Gama Shopping Complex (on Jalan Macalister ), is a small group of Hawker Stands, one on the end produces a delicious traditional Penang laksa = RM2 (AUD$0.70). Washed down with a freshly squeezed sugar - cane juice = RM1 (AUD$0.35) = Bargain!

Sup Hameed on Jalan Penang, opposite the teksi stand, dishes up morish, thick, hearty oxtail soup and beef 'torpedo' (testicle) soup. RM5 (AUD$1.75).

Gurney Drive is a hot spot at night for a enormous range of hawker stand fare. Fried soft - shell crab , with chilli sauce was our favourite.

For a seafood indulgence, we had finger - licking, steamed ,whole seabass with tofu, sour plum, ginger and shallot at Sam's Seafood on the Esplanade in Georgetown (amongst the food court stalls) RM35 (AUD$13).

Aunty, Shop 6, Jalan Hilir Pasar, Kota Bharu

Aunty (not her real name), is one of the cooks at this fantastic food store in Kota Bharu.

No. 6, Kedai Makan, Jalan Hilir Pasar, Kota Bharu . Aunty is the main cook at this traditional Malay eatery, providing quick self-service for local workers. An array of approx 30 dishes are on display, including crisp fried fish, chicken/mutton curries, greens , assorted egg options and sambals. A meal here will set you back a whopping Rm 3.50 (aus$ 1.50) .

Taxi from Kuala Besut to Kota Bharu

We took a taxi from the port town of Kuala Besut to Kota Bharu in the far north of Malaysia.

After a week sunning our magnificent bodies on Pulau (island) Perhentian, we took a taxi from the port town of Kuala Besut to Kota Bharu in the north east of Malaysia, close to the Thai border. (Rm 35, approx aus$12) .

Ideal Travellers House, Kota Bharu

Situated down a quiet laneway, this basic guesthouse close to the night market was busy with backpackers.

Ideal Travellers House, 3954/F, Jalan Kebun Sultan, Kota Bharu. Friendly owners run this basic, cheap and centrally located guesthouse. The oldest resident being a 100 year old turtle in charge of patrolling the back garden. The room for 3 people was Rm 28 ( aus$ 10) .

Kedai Kopi, (Coffee Shop), The Local Hangout

All throughout Malaysia you will find shops/ stalls selling sweet, thick coffee and pulled tea.

These local shops are filled all day with young and old catching up over their prefered brew. The local malay coffee is in a raw, almost crystallized form and is very strong and thick. Both tea and coffee are strained from one jug to another to mix and refine, usually served with condensed milk.. A cup will set you back about Rm 1(aus $0.35)

Kota Bharu Markets

The Kota Bharu Indoor Produce Market is alive(literally), with produce. There is an enormous array of fresh fruit and vegetables, an abundance of poultry and seafood; fresh and dried.

The Indoor Produce Market in Kota Bharu is alive (literally), with produce including an enormous array of fresh fruit and vegetables from around Malaysia and Southern Thailand. Rambutans, custard apples, lychees and jackfruit are available. Always present in the markets and on the streets is the durian- an amazingly popular fruit the size of a pineapple, with a powdery, creamy flesh and an offensive odour. It has inspired many " No Durian Allowed " signs in hotels and on public transport. We also came across salak - a brown, scaly skinned fruit with pale flesh the texture of custard apple and with a tropical flavour. There is range of poultry and an abundance of seafood; fresh and dried. We watched a woman club to death and trim a catfish for sale.
The Night Market food stalls are worth a visit for local hawker fare, including fish cakes wrapped in banana leaves
(Rm1, AUD$0.35), and bamboo skewered chicken (Rm4, AUD$1.35).

Big Pete's Secret Rum (until now)

Here is Big Pete's (allegedly) secret brew for Rum . MAKE AT OWN RISK! CAUTION!

STEP 1: obtain a large plastic container with screw-lid, suitable for burying.

STEP 2: 1 kg. of steamed glutinous rice into container.

STEP 3: sprinkle rice with four teaspoons of brewer's yeast. pour on four cans of ' kickapoo' softdrink. (you can substitute 'Lift' or any other lemon softdrink).

STEP 4: seal container, and completely bury underground for one month.

STEP 5: remove from ground, add 1 kg. of brown sugar; cover, and place underground for another month.

STEP 6: READY! Remove from ground, DRINK AT OWN RISK! Not personally tested...

Jamie from Melbourne, now working in Kuala Lumpur

Jamie, a friend from Melbourne who is working in KL, showed us a good night out... Fatty Crabs Restaurant offers a taste sensation with its delicious fried chicken, prawn and crab dishes.

Jamie, a friend from Melbourne who is working in KL, showed us a good night out... Fatty Crabs Restaurant offers a taste sensation with its delicious fried chicken, prawn and crab dishes. The place was jam-packed when we arrived, with most people elbow deep in crab. We indulged in the messy business of devouring crabs the size of muddies, which are covered in a secret chilli sauce. This sauce is a family recipe. It is passed down to each generation and no one was prepared to share it with us. We will endeavour to obtain this recipe somehow!

From Fatty's we headed into Petaling Jaya, a suburb of KL, southwest of the city centre. The little bar we went to has lovely staff who love to practice their Ingerlish. The regulars buy their spirits by the bottle, and if not consumed that night, the bottle is looked after by the staff until next time. The name of this bar is a little hazy- maybe “Monty's”?

Muthu @ The Riverside Curry House

Muthu is from KL, and has been in town for three months. He set up and manages The Riverside Curry House, and does all the cooking.

RIVERSIDE CURRY HOUSE (PH: 016 25005650) Cherating, Malaysia; on the road running from the beach-front to the highway. Muthu is from KL, and has been in town for three months. He set up and manages The Riverside Curry House,
and does all the cooking.

Muthu produced delicious chapati, dosai, roti and curries for us to try and did a cooking demo for us, which we filmed. He is not formally qualified; he learnt his skills from his mum. He is very passionate, with great attention to detail; beer here is served with an ice-cold glass from the freezer.

Mazlam, from Cherating in Malaysia

Mazlam, from Cherating in Malaysia, is a barman, fisherman, and come monsoon- surfer.

He was the first local to surf the waves generated during the monsoon in Cherating. He's laid back, well travelled, and is a good source of local info.

Great guy for a chat over a couple of beverages at the Rhana Pippin Bar on the beach (PH :017 6747015), or at his groovy little house on the river where he lives with his cat Charlie.

Big Pete's Pudu Hostel, Jalan Pudu

We stayed at Big Pete's Pudu Hostel, Jalan (road) Pudu, across from Puduraya bus station. Big Pete was allegedly born and bred in Townsville and has lived in Malaysia about 40 years.

We stayed at Big Pete's – i.e. Pudu Hostel, Jalan (road) Pudu, across from Puduraya bus station. Big Pete was allegedly born and bred in Townsville and has lived in Malaysia about 40 years. His claim to fame is (allegedly) being seven-times Malaysian shot gun-beer champion. In his heyday ( before giving up drinking) he was known to be able to consume 110 large bottles of Tiger between 10am and 4pm (allegedly).

Pete provided an air-con room for three, with shared bathroom for RM 50 (AUD $18.40). The hostel has a large common area with t.v, cold Tiger and meals available. The Puduraya bus station is convenient for a bus to Singapore, to Bangkok and for all of Malaysia in between.

Bus from Kuala Lumpur to Cherating

We went from KL to Cherating on a bus from the Puduraya Bus Station. We paid RM18 each (AUD$6.60) for a ticket to Kuantan south of Cherating, then asked the driver to take us on to Cherating, which cost an extra RM3 each (AUD$1).

We went from KL to Cherating on a bus from the Puduraya Bus Station. We paid RM18 each (AUD$6.60) for a ticket to Kuantan south of Cherating, then asked the driver to take us on to Cherating, which cost an extra RM3 each (AUD$1).The long distance buses are comfortable and spacious with allocated seats. The trip took 5 hrs and was enhanced by trashy 80's music.

Bungalows at Cherating Inn are 100m from the beach; barter with the owner to get the price down. We managed RM50 (AUD$18.40) for a triple with bathroom and air-con. Friendly owners; monkeys and goats complimentary.

No Name Chinese Roadside Restaurant

On Jalan(road) Pudu; next to a motorbike shop. Our first meal in town was a winner! We stumbled across this place by walking from Jalan Bukit Bintang, turning left onto Jalan Pudu and going about 800m. The restaurant is on the left-hand side. Seeing many tables of locals enjoying a meal inspired us to go in.

On Jalan(road) Pudu; next to a motorbike shop. Our first meal in town was a winner! We stumbled across this place by walking from Jalan Bukit Bintang, turning left onto Jalan Pudu and going about 800m. The restaurant is on the left-hand side. Seeing many tables of locals enjoying a meal inspired us to go in. No English was spoken, and the wall-mounted menu was all in Chinese, however, the staff and customers were all very welcoming and accommodating. By pointing to dishes we could see others eating , and with recommendations from them via gestures, we were sorted.

We had fresh-water whole catfish, deep-fried, with a sauce made from soy, ginger, coriander, spring onion, rice wine and a little sugar. The soft, silken bean-curd in Malaysia is a real treat. In this instance, it was lightly steamed,and served with crispy garlic shallots, chilli and white pepper, along with a soy, ginger and rice wine syrup. These dishes were accompanied by plain rice and wok fried kang kong (a form of spinach).Total food cost = RM(Malaysian ringgit) 15 ( AUD$5.50).Note that the locals consume everything of the fish; the head included.

Muthu @ The Riverside Curry House, Cherating

RIVERSIDE CURRY HOUSE (PH: 016 25005650) Cherating, Malaysia; on the road running from the beach-front to the highway. Muthu is from KL, and has been in town for three months. He set up and manages The Riverside Curry House,
and does all the cooking.

Muthu produced delicious chapati, dosai, roti and curries for us to try and did a cooking demo for us, which we filmed. He is not formally qualified; he learnt his skills from his mum. He is very passionate, with great attention to detail; beer here is served with an ice-cold glass from the freezer.

Hawker Stands

The Hawker stands are many and varied, and they go day and night all over KL. Locals eat most, if not all of their meals out; the street stall option is always close at hand.

The Hawker stands are many and varied, and they go day and night all over KL. Locals eat most, if not all of their meals out; the street stall option is always close at hand. Though they are quite simple set-ups, the depth of flavour is very rewarding for the consumer.

Try the duck-lady outside of the Chinatown market; corner of Jalan Hang Lekir and Jalan Sultan. BBQ pork and nasi (rice) or mee (noodles) = RM 4.50 (AUD$1.65). This stand only operates during the day. Look for the BBQ duck hanging in the street trolley.

Kemaman Markets

The markets in Kemaman are easily accessed from Cherating by hailing a local bus on the highway RM1.50(AUD$0.50). The trip takes half an hour on a pretty basic bus.

The markets in Kemaman are easily accessed from Cherating by hailing a local bus on the highway RM1.50(AUD$0.50). The trip takes ½ hour on a pretty basic bus.

An abundance of farm produce is on display at the day market. The night market (pasar malam) takes place on thursday night and is a feast of local delights from cous cous and palm sugar hot-cakes to coconut paste wrapped in pandanus leaves. The array of brightly coloured tempting sweets is amazing.

No Name Shack

NO NAME SHACK, Cherating, Malaysia. North East on main beach road, opposite the Equestrian Club. We ate here twice a day during our stay (except wednesday when it is closed). Two groups of women run a separate morning and afternoon shift.

NO NAME SHACK, Cherating, Malaysia. North East on main beach road, opposite the Equestrian Club. We ate here twice a day during our stay ( except wednesday when it is closed). Two groups of women run a separate morning and afternoon shift. The breakfast women start their preparation from home, at about 3am. They open at 6.30am and go until sold out- often by 10am.

Their Nasi (rice) Lemak is by far, the best example of this delicious breakfast staple we have experienced. It consists of roasted peanuts, crisp fried anchovies, pickled cucumber, fried or boiled egg, spicy sambal and curried beef, chicken or fish. These women are also very skilled at making curry puffs, and doughnuts. Washed down with a thick kopi susu (local coffee with condensed milk), or teh tarik ( hot sweet tea long-poured or 'pulled' to cool enough to drink), it is a divine wake-up experience!

The afternoon ladies are always busy too! It seems like the whole village eats at this place at least once a day. The afternoon ,after a hot, humid day, is the time to indulge in the ice treat- 'ABC'. This version consists of a bowl of shaved ice, sago pearls, corn kernels, red beans, jelly, caramelized peanuts, rose syrup, pandanus syrup and condensed milk. It is awesome; a crazed slurpie experience. Other tasty snacks available at this time of day are kerepor (crisp battered fish sausages), and pisang goreng (fried bananas).

Muthu's Bone Marrow Curry

This curry goes down a treat and is easy to make. Muthu runs The Riverside Curry House and is passionate about his cooking.

Ingredients:

½ cup vegetable oil
2 cinnamon sticks
3 star anise
4 cloves
handful of Indian curry leaves
½ litre water
2 tbsp. curry powder
1 tbsp. chilli powder
½ tbsp. turmeric
1 spring onion (chopped)
1 bunch coriander (chopped)
salt

Paste:
1 shallot
2 cloves garlic
½ stick lemongrass
1 knob ginger
1 green birds-eye chilli
3 candlenuts (grated)
1 tbsp. cummin
1 tbsp. coriander seed
1/2 tbsp. fenugreek
1 tbsp. black peppercorns

Method

Grind all ingredients for paste until smooth consistency.
Heat oil and fry cinnamon sticks, star anise and cloves.
Add the paste; gently fry for 5 mins.
Add marrow, curry leaves and water; simmer for 15 mins.

Add curry powder, chilli powder and turmeric. Simmer for 1 ½ hrs or until marrow tender.

Serve with spring onion, coriander and salt to taste.
Serves 4.