Under the Influence

There's no programme available for Trang's Vegetarian Festival. The locals often gave us conflicting information regarding where and when - but they all assured us we wouldn't miss the most outrageous displays by those under the influence of the gods. As it turned out, we managed to score some amazing footage of believers going into a trance and the crazy antics that followed.

We kept busy visiting each Chinese temple and watching for the crowds, that became a sea of white clad figures ( see LAM Forum ), when major events were about to take place. During the first days of the Vegetarian Festival, a lantern pole was erected to invoke the gods, a parade of virgins was held and people started to participate in paying homage to various gods.

Anticipation grew one morning as we watched open backed trucks, full of men in strange clothing - such as bright red and gold cut out vests, some with whips - being driven out of the temple. As the trucks passed, people along the road bent down, as if to show respect. The next night, during more celebrations, we noticed some young men sporting fresh, deep cuts to each side of their mouth.

When events moved to the large temple close to the centre of town one night, the atmosphere was highly charged. Heavy, repetitive drum beats would gradually build and the effect on the crowd was quite intense. As this continued, individuals would suddenly start shaking all over, jump, sway and dance in a frenzy. Sometimes their eyes rolled back. A desk , covered in scrolls, was set up next to the drums and each affected person would slam their palms on the table, shaking. Attendants would help them into colourful garments, to depict a particular god. This continued, also extending to some women, who are believed to become possessed by child gods. They are dressed in bright, oversized child outfits, their hair in pigtails. This was facinating to watch, it didn't matter if we believed in the possession by gods, or not; clearly these people did and that made it real.

More activites followed, culminating in an amazing Chinese dragon dance ( the longest dragon we've ever seen ), then a massive firework display. When these festivities were over, we watched what appeared to be a 'de-possession' ritual. Once again, the possessed put their palms down on the desk and prayed or chanted. Suddenly, they would jump violently back and yell, like they'd received a jolt of electricity. They changed out of the custume and appeared to be in a heavy 'come down' state.