Sunday, February 11, 2007

3 Months in Vientiane


The frangipani lined streets, abundance of temples and river side position, give the capital of Lao a tranquil, laid back feel. Despite a turbulant history, the Lao people are welcoming, friendly and fun loving. Vientiane has managed ( so far), to preserve Lao culture and tradition, despite (a growing) multicultural population, ongoing development projects and influences from greater access to technology.

It has been a hectic time on the Lao social calander of late... As Buddists, most Lao people do not partake in Christmas festivities; however, there certainly seemed to be even more Lao dancing and singing and Beer Lao and Johnny Walker Red flowing than usual during this time. New Year had many locals out and about to celebrate, though they let loose at their own version ( Lao New Year) in April. November through to February is an auspicious and practical (dry season) time for wedding ceremonies.Though an official midnight curfew is in place in Vientiane, private parties often continue into the early hours and there are a couple of options in town for 'another one for the road'...Lane Xang Hotel is close to Nam Phu on Fa Ngoum Road and on the same road, but further out is the huge uninspiring Don Chang Palace, complete with disco.

The strong Lao culture dictates politeness and respect. These qualities are indoctrinated by the family and the arrangement of villages within the city. Each village has a head person who makes decisions for and oversees that community. They approve living arrangements and most other matters that concern the residents and are responsible for implementing health and safety strategies. The government rewards villages which provide and maintain clean and healthy conditions and encourage education and development programs.

The French influence of the past is still in evidence; it can be seen in the old style French buildings, French street signs and by the availability of French wine and cuisine. Many older Lao people speak French fluently and the French government invest money towards language schools and projects to keep the language alive here. However, with an ever increasing community of expats from all over the world and the developing tourism industry, the push is towards learning English. Language schools are big business here as students want to secure greater work opportunities.

Vientiane restaurants represent the diversity of the people living here. Excellent French, Italian, Indian, Chinese,Thai, Japanese and International restaurants abound. Delicious, healthy, fresh Lao food is a cheap and delightful option. Dinner from a street vendor can be about $US1 and you'll pay about $US9 in a fancy restaurant for a New Zealand steak.

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