16 hrs on the bench

Well, what a bonding experience it was - 16 hrs perched on a narrow wooden bench, travelling from Trang to Bangkok on the rattler..

We were lucky that we weren't allocated seats together; at least with people of Asian build in between , we had a chance of keeping half a bum cheek on the seat!

Of course we sought some relief from the hard seat and the monotony, by getting up to move around. Luke spent a lot of the journey in the alcove between the train carriages - before this area became prime sleeping space. The aisles were also full of bodies stretched out on sheets of newspaper. The hawkers somehow managed to keep up their activities, in an endless parade through the train: cigarettes, newspapers, beer, tea, coffee, cold drinks...an array of food from dried squid snacks to rice and pork meals. Even Thai ice cream made an appearance.

We brought along a bottle of Thai whiskey to ease the pain, but it 's success was limited. Our location was certainly convenient - right outside the toilet facilities ( with no water to flush ). Ah, the stale stentch of urine grew to a nostril burning climax by the early hours of the morning. We were pretty drained and disorientated when we finally hit the blanket of pollution in Bangkok.

Catching up with Tui - and 'Super Harry'

Due to the ongoing hospitality of Tui, who we met several weeks ago in Trang, we were introduced to Harry ( the local radio announcer ) and his lovely wife Yieow. They invested much time and energy in showing us the sights of Trang and surrounds. We enjoyed their company immensely, as they share a fun loving and generous spirit

Often we had no clear idea of where we were off to, but would pile into the back of Harry's 4WD, along with friends, relatives and/or locals hitching a ride from off the street. We were taken out to one of the local waterfalls for a dip and to varied locations for a feed. We enjoyed meals at the Chinese temple, local shopping centre and at places well off the beaten track, including a restaurant a couple of hours drive from town, overlooking the ocean.

We gained another perspective on the Vegetarian Festival (see LAM Bits, 3 Pigs) when we arrived at a beautiful temple, set in a landscape of limestone cliffs and jungle, outside of Trang. The extended family we were with, gave donations of rice and other useful cooking ingredients to the temple. Then we discovered that Tui's girlfriend Seow was to stay out there for the duration of the festival, along with many other women from town. These women spend the days fasting, praying and avoiding the temptations prohibited under the rites of the festival. Some also choose to have their hair shaved off - as Seow did. Afterwards, the boys dubbed her ' Demi Moore'.

The main building is surrounded by 3 large caves and Tui and Harry guided us through each of them. The caves are actually places of worship, with beautiful gold Buddhas and images of other gods throughout. A large 'canteen' and prayer hall are housed within the cave structures.

After an eventful time in Trang, we were treated to a send off at the train station, as we primed up for a 16 hr, 3rd class trip to Bangkok ( another story!). We were provided with snacks for the journey - enough to last for a good week after. We're looking forward to a visit to Trang next year - there's rumoured to be a wedding on the cards!

Coldest Beer in SE Asia

Ditch the ice cubes usually required to cool your luke warm beer in Thailand - welcome to icy beer slushies!

About 50 metres NW of the clocktower in Trang ( on Th. Visetkul ), in a square off the main footpath, opposite what has to be the largest portrait of the King in Trang, is a cluster of food stalls. The one with its ' kitchen' virtually on the footpath, has something special inside...

It seats about 25 people at a time and would do double that in take-aways. We frequented enough, that the main attraction - the beer fridge - became self service for us. It is set so cold that the beer would pour semi - frozen from the bottle. At 40 baht (AUD$1.30), a tallie, naturally, we were regulars.

One evening, the young chef working there decided he was up for a session with us. All was going well until he decided we should skull the drinks. To be fair, he'd already helped himself to a few during service and is prettly lean. He chose to down his beer through a straw. After spilling a few bottles, then smashing a couple more, he got up, did the swagger and then head butted the gutter. Game over. As one of the other chefs was still cleaning down, the young guy was sat in a chair and hosed down. He had split his ear open and grazed his shoulder and arm. We thought it was time to head off. We returned the next day, to find that he was a no show and in the bad books with his old man, the owner!

The Art of Imitation

We were kept guessing sometimes; though many dishes looked like real meat, it was just clever imitation. The Vegetarian Festival in Trang is a bounty of wonder.

Throughout Trang, in numerous restaurants, stalls and at tents set up in the grounds of temples, there was a remarkable array of vegetarian fare on offer, as part of the Vegetarian Festival. Yellow flags fluttered in the streets to highlight the location of these places and they did a roaring trade during the 9 days of celebrations.

A large percentage of the dishes were made to look exactly like meat. Tofu, tempeh, rice, yam and potato were used in amazingly creative ways to imitate the meat that is disallowed for the followers of the festival rituals. There was imitation bbq pork, roast duck and even what appeared to be whole fish.

The temples provided free food all day for anyone who turned up, foreigners included. Many locals bring donations of food to these temples as a way of contributing to the cost and to gain merit.

Under the Influence

There's no programme available for Trang's Vegetarian Festival. The locals often gave us conflicting information regarding where and when - but they all assured us we wouldn't miss the most outrageous displays by those under the influence of the gods. As it turned out, we managed to score some amazing footage of believers going into a trance and the crazy antics that followed.

We kept busy visiting each Chinese temple and watching for the crowds, that became a sea of white clad figures ( see LAM Forum ), when major events were about to take place. During the first days of the Vegetarian Festival, a lantern pole was erected to invoke the gods, a parade of virgins was held and people started to participate in paying homage to various gods.

Anticipation grew one morning as we watched open backed trucks, full of men in strange clothing - such as bright red and gold cut out vests, some with whips - being driven out of the temple. As the trucks passed, people along the road bent down, as if to show respect. The next night, during more celebrations, we noticed some young men sporting fresh, deep cuts to each side of their mouth.

When events moved to the large temple close to the centre of town one night, the atmosphere was highly charged. Heavy, repetitive drum beats would gradually build and the effect on the crowd was quite intense. As this continued, individuals would suddenly start shaking all over, jump, sway and dance in a frenzy. Sometimes their eyes rolled back. A desk , covered in scrolls, was set up next to the drums and each affected person would slam their palms on the table, shaking. Attendants would help them into colourful garments, to depict a particular god. This continued, also extending to some women, who are believed to become possessed by child gods. They are dressed in bright, oversized child outfits, their hair in pigtails. This was facinating to watch, it didn't matter if we believed in the possession by gods, or not; clearly these people did and that made it real.

More activites followed, culminating in an amazing Chinese dragon dance ( the longest dragon we've ever seen ), then a massive firework display. When these festivities were over, we watched what appeared to be a 'de-possession' ritual. Once again, the possessed put their palms down on the desk and prayed or chanted. Suddenly, they would jump violently back and yell, like they'd received a jolt of electricity. They changed out of the custume and appeared to be in a heavy 'come down' state.

Freaky Market

We witnessed amazing sights of pain and religious fervour during the parades through town for the Vegetarian festival.

The most gruesome shows during the Vegetarian Festival, were held at the big, central Chinese temple, in broad daylight. The mediums of the gods, once again went into a trance, to become possessed. The drums beat loudly, and a procession of people carrying flags and minature shrines, waited patiently. A couple of local guys, overseeing the events, shuffled us through the crowds to see the devottees being skewered through the face with metal rods. They were dressed in the 'outfits of gods', often shaking, some with eyes rolling back. Attendants dowsed their wounds with water; there wasn't a lot of blood, amazingly, but of course, horrific scenes nonetheless.

In sweltering heat, in the middle of the day, these people with pierced faces ( and necks ), started off to march through town, an event that took many hours. During the parade, the 'gods' visited tables of offerings set up outside shop fronts along the way to give their blessings. Some of these offerings ( eg. fruit ), ended up attached to the face piercings, kebab style.

This activity continued for days, with participants upping the ante, by getting creative with the objects used to puncture their faces with: umbrellas, whipper - snipper, chairs, flags, chains, bicycles, branches, power drill, fishing rods...

The blood flowed freely from a man continually slicing his tongue with a blade imbedded in a bamboo casing, another man was hitting a blade into his chest with a blunt instrument.

Locals lined the streets to witness the bizarre scenes. As the parade approached, an eerie, quiet would fall. The main players often looked exhausted, some clearly in pain, despite their 'god' status. They were soaked in perspiration and from water being poured over them - the only form of relief provided. A couple of women had a rod through their face, but mostly it was the men, some very young, with a face full. After the parade and entourage moved on, huge poles, wrapped in fireworks were let off; the noise shocking after the silence before.

The Chinese Vegetarian Festival

It's believed this festival originated in Phuket, Thailand, where it continues to be practiced each year. It made its mark during a time about 150-180 years ago when inhabitants of the island suffered an outbreak of what is thought to have been malaria. Members of a visiting opera company from China also fell ill; they had neglected to pay homage to the 9 emperor gods that month...

The Chinese visitors immediately set about appeasing the gods by performing sacred rituals and following a vegetarian diet for a month. The people recovered and there were enough converts to ensure this has become a yearly event. It is thought that by participating in this practice of pacifying the gods and abstaining from stimulants, then good health, good luck and peace of mind can be achieved. The ritual of some devottees ( called 'Ma Song' ), of becoming possessed by the gods, showcases extreme displays of self mortification. Because they are possessed by gods, they are believed to be immortal and to prove the strength of their belief, 'Ma Song' walk over hot coals, go up 'ladders' made of blades and pierce their bodies with a ( seemingly unlimited ) range of instruments. Our mate Tui ( see friends of LAM ) regaled us with a story about a 'Ma Song' that got carried away one year; instead of limiting himself to facial wounds, he pretty much committed ' hari kiri '. Supposedly, he did hold up longer than expected, but did eventually die.

In the hands of the gods

What a time we had on our return visit to Trang...some images have been impressed on us that won't ever be erased. A 'Vegetarian Festival', generally arouses thoughts of health and well being, rather than self mutilation, but it was extreme examples of the latter that surrounded us in Trang during this event.

The Vegetarian Festival takes place annually, during 9 days in September / October ( the date is determined by the lunar calander ). It centres around 2 Chinese temples in Trang, where people gather day and night, dressed all in white, to display their abstention from consuming meat and alcohol, having sex, telling lies and killing. Menstruating or pregnant women, or those in mourning, cannot attend.

It is a hive of activity, with make-shift restaurants providing free vegetarian fare ( see LAM Bits ); hawkers selling noisy dragon toys, virgin parades, Chinese dragon dances and riviting displays by those under the influence of the gods - all set to a deafening soundtrack of constant firecrackers and drum beats ( the noise is believed to drive away evil spirits ). (See 3 Little Pigs to Market ).

Cocktail hour

A trip to the boat harbour sets you among yachts/boats from all around the world. A perfect place to lose yourself with a cocktail.

A trip up the eastern side of phuket island will take you past the boat harbour. Stop into 'Watermark' a pleasant place to sit and enjoy a refreshing cocktail. Rumour has it, the best on Phuket.

We settled in for some classic cocktails with a Thai spin.

Capriosca: 2 shots vodka

3 limes (cut in wedges)

1 tsp palm sugar (however much you'd like)

Add lime wedges and and sugar into cocktail shaker (or glass), crush with pestle until lime juice has released.

Add vodka and crushed ice, mix well and serve.

The Watermark version was very generous on the lime and vodka!

Moscow Mule: 50ml vodka

70ml lime juice

4 lime wedges

1 knob fresh ginger

200ml soda water

sprig of mint

Crush ginger with pestle to break down and release juice. Slightly press mint (stem included).

Mix in a highball glass with ice.

The fresh ginger adds a tangey savoury dimension, making it not as sugary as alot of mules.

"Nuts Anybody, nuts?"

Original, Thai style beer nuts...a tasty treat.

The Thai version of beer nuts incorporates typical Thai flavours:

Roasted peanuts are mixed with a small amount of salt, sugar, chilli, fried kaffir lime (finely sliced), and crisp garlic. Gets the taste buds tingling and the mouth watering!

Green Mango Salad Recipe

The tangy lime dressing was brilliantly mellowed by the creamy, earthiness of roasted cashews. A pleasant surprise, was how well crispy, dehydrated shrimp crunched in the mouth, adding texture and flavour.

Green Mango Salad:

Ingredients: 1 1/2 cups shredded green mango

2 chopped chillis

1 tblsp dried shrimp - fried until crispy

1/4 cup roasted, unsalted cashews

2 shallots, finely sliced

1 spring onion, finely sliced

1 kaffir lime, finely sliced

3 celery leaves, roughly torn

Dressing:

30mls lime juice

15mls fish sauce

palm sugar; a good pinch

Method: Combine dressing ingredients and disolve sugar. Mix other ingredients, coat well with dressing.

'Poortong' Restaurant, Phuket.

It is pronounced 'Poortong', but the sign is in Thai script only; on Phuket Rd. Look for the kitchen set up on the footpath and fluorescent lit seating inside. The friendly staff (see LAM Friends), shared a couple of recipes with us..

'Poortong' restaurant serves a good range of authentic Thai food (menu in English and Thai). Check out our acquired recipes for green mango salad (LAM Bits) and steamed clams. If you like it hot, 'Muh Parng'; fried pork in red curry sauce, with beans, chilli, lime leaf, green pepper and tumeric, is a delicious option. It gets all the diners coughing because of the chilli released in the air during cooking.

Steamed Clams:

Ingredients: 220grms fresh clams / mussels

2 tblsp chilli jam (your favourite brand)

4 or 5 kaffir lime leaves

fish sauce; a squirt

basil; to garnish

Method: Throw clams / mussels into a hot wok or pan, add a splash of water. Cover and leave to steam gently, until shells begin to open. Add chilli jam, fish sauce and lime leaves; mix through and simmer for 2 - 3 mins (add more water if required to allow for saucy consistancy). Tear basil and fold through to finish.

Smiles at Poortong Restaurant

Check out the happy staff at Poortong Restaurant, Phuket town. Long hours at work don't seem to dull the spirit here; we always received a warm welcome and big smiles. Combined with sumptuous Thai cuisine, no wonder we kept going back for more!

Along with the super friendly service at 'Poortong', we were often treated to tastes of speciality dishes - including staff meals, which invariably contained an amazing amount of chilli. We were also shown local produce that the cooks thought we may not be familiar with, such as jungle bean. The big chicka let us know that she wants a cooking job in Australia.(see LAM Bits).

Pengman Hotel / Noodle Shop

The Pengman Hotel is attached to the back of a noodle shop in central Phuket town. At 120 Baht (AUD$4) a room, it definitely rates a mention in Cattle Class...

Pengman Hotel (Phang-Nga Rd. Phuket town): It's reasonable accommodation (if you can deal with living in a box-like room with a fan) and it's 'convenience plus', with a handy location and a decent feed available downstairs ( the noodles are pretty good and the satay very tasty). The owner of the 'Pengman' has' excessive compulsive' disorder when it comes to cleaning the communal bathrooms, which is a relief, considering the favoured spot for drying the chillis out...

Phuket town

Phuket town is a pleasant surprise; it has an authentic Thai atmosphere with Chinese influence. Though the beach hubs on the island (such as Patong), are an example of the generic tourist beat, the town itself has retained it's heritage.

The backstreets of Phuket have much to offer; narrow streets with Chinese lanterns, old style coffee shops, noodle bars, street stalls and fantastic shopping for textile lovers (fabrics are sourced from all over Asia). It is satisfying to wander and make your own discoveries, especially in regard to food, as the cheap eat options are many and varied (see LAM Bits).

To our eyes, no physical effects of the tsunami were evident. The reminder of the tragedy lies in the many 'evacuation route' signs that have been erected and of course, the emotional recovery continues for the people. We didn't raise the topic with the locals we met casually, but on a couple of occasions, they reflected on their experience.